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After years of turbulence, small clothing designers struggle for a sustainable model – CBC.ca

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Amid high inflation, rising operating costs and shrinking Canadian demand, clothing designers in Nova Scotia say they’re struggling to find a sustainable business model.

Designers say they’ve had to adjust to significant changes in consumer behaviour, supply chain disruptions and inflation as they’ve navigated through the COVID-19 pandemic and its aftermath.

“We’ve made a lot of hard decisions. They were tough at first but since we’ve done it, we feel a lot freer,” said Anna Gilkerson, co-owner of Lunenburg-based clothing brand Ana + Zac.

But while businesses have made adjustments to survive, there are other challenges on the horizon, including next month’s deadline for the repayment of federal loans handed out during the pandemic.

“I think people were hoping that things were going to go back to normal but they’re not normal,” said Gilkerson. “It’s very difficult for businesses, particularly smaller independent businesses, to try and catch up.”

Cost pressures intensified

During the pandemic, Gilkeron said demand for their product — high-quality cotton basics sustainably made in Peru — went up, though the business encountered other challenges, including paying rent on a Halifax retail space they leased just before non-essential businesses were forced to temporarily close.

But it was in 2022 that the cost pressures really intensified.

“Anywhere from shipping to utilities, sourcing products, it was getting more expensive.”

Anna Gilkerson, left, and Zac Barkhouse, co-own the Lunenburg-based clothing brand Ana + Zac. (Cody Turner)

In response, Gilkerson said they decided it was best for the business to move online. They got out of the lease on their Halifax store, shrank the size of their team and moved to a much smaller space on the South Shore, where Gilkerson is from. 

While the brand has been able to attract new customers by targeting the U.S. market, Gilkerson said Canadian demand is stagnant. “I feel like consumers really are struggling with just food and with housing.”

The cost of doing business is going up. Small clothing designers are being hit hard

19 hours ago

Duration 2:00

Amid high inflation, rising operating costs, and shrinking Canadian demand, clothing designers in Nova Scotia say they’re struggling to find a sustainable business model. The CBC’s Moira Donovan has the story.

Declining demand a challenge

Other designers say they’re also dealing with the consequences of stagnant or declining Canadian demand.

They include Maggie MacCormick, owner of the small, sustainable clothing brand Daytime People, which she designs in Nova Scotia and has manufactured in India.

Like Gilkerson, MacCormick’s sales spiked early in the pandemic. “I felt like every customer I ever had showed up and bought multiple pieces.”

But at the same time, supply chain issues posed a challenge — from a worldwide zipper shortage to extreme weather in India that affected her manufacturer’s ability to work — her production cycle was thrown off by about a year.

The manufacturer of Daytime People block printing in Sanganer, Rajasthan in India. (Submitted by Maggie MacCormick)

After MacCormick sold her inventory, she was forced to let the business go dormant, and in the meantime, became a parent.

Since starting up again in spring 2023, MacCormick said her sales are roughly a third of what they once were.

“Before, I felt like if I followed my instincts and if I made a product that was good quality and made in a respectful way, that people would just buy it and that was always true. And now I feel like my instincts aren’t really enough.”

To avoid having her prices get to a “really inaccessible place,” MacCormick is pulling her clothing out of shops, and is moving into a smaller studio space on the South Shore where she hopes she can tap into the in-person tourist market come summer.

“I kind of see value in having something really small. My dream for my business is to be considered a hidden gem.”

A dress in Daytime People’s collection. Owner Maggie MacCormick said she’s pulling out of stores and downsizing her space to avoid increasing her prices. (Meghan Tansey Whitton)

Halifax clothing brand Thief & Bandit, selling sustainable handmade clothing from a studio space in downtown Halifax, has also made changes. 

Amie Cunningham, who started the brand in 2009, said they’ve had to be flexible to adjust to the swings of the last several years.

Like other designers, they saw sales go up in 2020, prompting them to add staff and move into a storefront on Barrington Street. But a year or so ago, sales started to shrink — so she started thinking about ways to pivot.

Amie Cunningham runs Thief & Bandit, a sustainable handmade clothing brand based in downtown Halifax (Brian MacKay/CBC)

Cunningham said they made the difficult decision to close the brick and mortar space and consolidate their operations to their studio. They also invested in an advertising strategy, which Cunningham said they haven’t had to do before. 

While they’ve seen increases in production costs, she said they’re leery of passing those on to the customer.

“It’s difficult to raise our prices because we don’t want to alienate any of our customers any more than we do. But the truth is that it is a lot of work to do what we do — and it is truly sustainable, truly made in house.”

Cunningham said the fact production is all done in house makes it easier to pivot the business when necessary — though that also adds to the workload.

“I thought I worked hard before and now it’s on another level, and I’m not willing to let it go,” she said. “So until the economy shifts, until we can get to a point where we’re making enough sales that I can hire some extra people to help me … I’m running my social media and I’m doing the website, I’m doing customer service, I’m photographing all the models, I’m designing all the prints.”

No time to recover

Duncan Robertson, senior policy analyst at the Canadian Federation of Independent Business, said while labour shortages used to be the main issue for businesses, domestic demand is now a top concern for members nationally and in Nova Scotia. 

Robertson said many businesses are also concerned with the looming deadline to repay federal loans handed out during the pandemic; businesses have until January 18 to pay what they owe, in order to have a portion of the loan forgiven. The deadline has already been extended twice. 

“2023 was by no means a year of recovery,” said Robertson. “It was a year of additional cost … so they need that extra time and they’re not getting that, which is a real concern.”

Robertson said without the year-long extension the CFIB is advocating for, the organization has estimated roughly 250,000 businesses nationwide will be at risk of closing. 

Loan repayment is a concern for Nova Scotia designers too; Amie Cunningham said her business never had debt before the pandemic, but is now feeling the strain. 

“I’m struggling just like everyone else to pay back that loan,” she said. “Essentially, it’s just going to take a huge chunk of our earnings over the holidays which means for us it’s going to be a really rough January, February until our sales go up again in spring.”

Anna Gilkerson, right, says while the choices they’ve made to keep their business sustainable have been hard, they’re starting to pay off. (Cody Turner)

Gilkerson said her business is also under pressure.

“We used that money to build our store and now we no longer have our storefront, and we’re actually still paying back rent for that location,” she said. “I think it’s hard for businesses to catch up so quickly.”

Nonetheless, Gilkerson said by making adjustments where they can, they’ve managed to find a business model that works despite the turbulence of the last few years. 

“We just want to have a sustainable business where we can pay ourselves and pay our employees and be able to save a little bit — we’re not asking for a lot.”

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The #1 Skill I Look For When Hiring

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File this column under “for what it’s worth.”

“Communication is one of the most important skills you require for a successful life.” — Catherine Pulsifer, author.

I’m one hundred percent in agreement with Pulsifer, which is why my evaluation of candidates begins with their writing skills. If a candidate’s writing skills and verbal communication skills, which I’ll assess when interviewing, aren’t well above average, I’ll pass on them regardless of their skills and experience.

 

Why?

 

Because business is fundamentally about getting other people to do things—getting employees to be productive, getting customers to buy your products or services, and getting vendors to agree to a counteroffer price. In business, as in life in general, you can’t make anything happen without effective communication; this is especially true when job searching when your writing is often an employer’s first impression of you.

 

Think of all the writing you engage in during a job search (resumes, cover letters, emails, texts) and all your other writing (LinkedIn profile, as well as posts and comments, blogs, articles, tweets, etc.) employers will read when they Google you to determine if you’re interview-worthy.

 

With so much of our communication today taking place via writing (email, text, collaboration platforms such as Microsoft Teams, Slack, ClickUp, WhatsApp and Rocket.Chat), the importance of proficient writing skills can’t be overstated.

 

When assessing a candidate’s writing skills, you probably think I’m looking for grammar and spelling errors. Although error-free writing is important—it shows professionalism and attention to detail—it’s not the primary reason I look at a candidate’s writing skills.

 

The way someone writes reveals how they think.

 

  • Clear writing = Clear thinking
  • Structured paragraphs = Structured mind
  • Impactful sentences = Impactful ideas

 

Effective writing isn’t about using sophisticated vocabulary. Hemingway demonstrated that deceptively simple, stripped-down prose can captivate readers. Effective writing takes intricate thoughts and presents them in a way that makes the reader think, “Damn! Why didn’t I see it that way?” A good writer is a dead giveaway for a good thinker. More than ever, the business world needs “good thinkers.”

 

Therefore, when I come across a candidate who’s a good writer, hence a good thinker, I know they’re likely to be able to write:

 

  • Emails that don’t get deleted immediately and are responded to
  • Simple, concise, and unambiguous instructions
  • Pitches that are likely to get read
  • Social media content that stops thumbs
  • Human-sounding website copy
  • Persuasively, while attuned to the reader’s possible sensitivities

 

Now, let’s talk about the elephant in the room: AI, which job seekers are using en masse. Earlier this year, I wrote that AI’s ability to hyper-increase an employee’s productivity—AI is still in its infancy; we’ve seen nothing yet—in certain professions, such as writing, sales and marketing, computer programming, office and admin, and customer service, makes it a “fewer employees needed” tool, which understandably greatly appeals to employers. In my opinion, the recent layoffs aren’t related to the economy; they’re due to employers adopting AI. Additionally, companies are trying to balance investing in AI with cost-cutting measures. CEOs who’ve previously said, “Our people are everything,” have arguably created today’s job market by obsessively focusing on AI to gain competitive advantages and reduce their largest expense, their payroll.

 

It wouldn’t be a stretch to assume that most AI usage involves generating written content, content that’s obvious to me, and likely to you as well, to have been written by AI. However, here’s the twist: I don’t particularly care.

 

Why?

 

Because the fundamental skill I’m looking for is the ability to organize thoughts and communicate effectively. What I care about is whether the candidate can take AI-generated content and transform it into something uniquely valuable. If they can, they’re demonstrating the skills of being a good thinker and communicator. It’s like being a great DJ; anyone can push play, but it takes skill to read a room and mix music that gets people pumped.

 

Using AI requires prompting effectively, which requires good writing skills to write clear and precise instructions that guide the AI to produce desired outcomes. Prompting AI effectively requires understanding structure, flow and impact. You need to know how to shape raw information, such as milestones throughout your career when you achieved quantitative results, into a compelling narrative.

So, what’s the best way to gain and enhance your writing skills? As with any skill, you’ve got to work at it.

Two rules guide my writing:

 

  • Use strong verbs and nouns instead of relying on adverbs, such as “She dashed to the store.” instead of “She ran quickly to the store.” or “He whispered to the child.” instead of “He spoke softly to the child.”
  • Avoid using long words when a shorter one will do, such as “use” instead of “utilize” or “ask” instead of “inquire.” As attention spans get shorter, I aim for clarity, simplicity and, most importantly, brevity in my writing.

 

Don’t just string words together; learn to organize your thoughts, think critically, and communicate clearly. Solid writing skills will significantly set you apart from your competition, giving you an advantage in your job search and career.

_____________________________________________________________________

 

Nick Kossovan, a well-seasoned veteran of the corporate landscape, offers “unsweetened” job search advice. You can send Nick your questions to artoffindingwork@gmail.com.

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Politics likely pushed Air Canada toward deal with ‘unheard of’ gains for pilots

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MONTREAL – Politics, public opinion and salary hikes south of the border helped push Air Canada toward a deal that secures major pay gains for pilots, experts say.

Hammered out over the weekend, the would-be agreement includes a cumulative wage hike of nearly 42 per cent over four years — an enormous bump by historical standards — according to one source who was not authorized to speak publicly on the matter. The previous 10-year contract granted increases of just two per cent annually.

The federal government’s stated unwillingness to step in paved the way for a deal, noted John Gradek, after Prime Minister Justin Trudeau made it plain the two sides should hash one out themselves.

“Public opinion basically pressed the federal cabinet, including the prime minister, to keep their hands clear of negotiations and looking at imposing a settlement,” said Gradek, who teaches aviation management at McGill University.

After late-night talks at a hotel near Toronto’s Pearson airport, the country’s biggest airline and the union representing 5,200-plus aviators announced early Sunday morning they had reached a tentative agreement, averting a strike that would have grounded flights and affected some 110,000 passengers daily.

The relative precariousness of the Liberal minority government as well as a push to appear more pro-labour underlay the prime minister’s hands-off approach to the negotiations.

Trudeau said Friday the government would not step in to fix the impasse — unlike during a massive railway work stoppage last month and a strike by WestJet mechanics over the Canada Day long weekend that workers claimed road roughshod over their constitutional right to collective bargaining. Trudeau said the government respects the right to strike and would only intervene if it became apparent no negotiated deal was possible.

“They felt that they really didn’t want to try for a third attempt at intervention and basically said, ‘Let’s let the airline decide how they want to deal with this one,'” said Gradek.

“Air Canada ran out of support as the week wore on, and by the time they got to Friday night, Saturday morning, there was nothing left for them to do but to basically try to get a deal set up and accepted by ALPA (Air Line Pilots Association).”

Trudeau’s government was also unlikely to consider back-to-work legislation after the NDP tore up its agreement to support the Liberal minority in Parliament, Gradek said. Conservative Leader Pierre Poilievre, whose party has traditionally toed a more pro-business line, also said last week that Tories “stand with the pilots” and swore off “pre-empting” the negotiations.

Air Canada CEO Michael Rousseau had asked Ottawa on Thursday to impose binding arbitration pre-emptively — “before any travel disruption starts” — if talks failed. Backed by business leaders, he’d hoped for an effective repeat of the Conservatives’ move to head off a strike in 2012 by legislating Air Canada pilots and ground crew to stick to their posts before any work stoppage could start.

The request may have fallen flat, however. Gradek said he believes there was less anxiety over the fallout from an airline strike than from the countrywide railway shutdown.

He also speculated that public frustration over thousands of cancelled flights would have flowed toward Air Canada rather than Ottawa, prompting the carrier to concede to a deal yielding “unheard of” gains for employees.

“It really was a total collapse of the Air Canada bargaining position,” he said.

Pilots are slated to vote in the coming weeks on the four-year contract.

Last year, pilots at Delta Air Lines, United Airlines and American Airlines secured agreements that included four-year pay boosts ranging from 34 per cent to 40 per cent, ramping up pressure on other carriers to raise wages.

After more than a year of bargaining, Air Canada put forward an offer in August centred around a 30 per cent wage hike over four years.

But the final deal, should union members approve it, grants a 26 per cent increase in the first year alone, retroactive to September 2023, according to the source. Three wage bumps of four per cent would follow in 2024 through 2026.

Passengers may wind up shouldering some of that financial load, one expert noted.

“At the end of the day, it’s all us consumers who are paying,” said Barry Prentice, who heads the University of Manitoba’s transport institute.

Higher fares may be mitigated by the persistence of budget carrier Flair Airlines and the rapid expansion of Porter Airlines — a growing Air Canada rival — as well as waning demand for leisure trips. Corporate travel also remains below pre-COVID-19 levels.

Air Canada said Sunday the tentative contract “recognizes the contributions and professionalism of Air Canada’s pilot group, while providing a framework for the future growth of the airline.”

The union issued a statement saying that, if ratified, the agreement will generate about $1.9 billion of additional value for Air Canada pilots over the course of the deal.

Meanwhile, labour tension with cabin crew looms on the horizon. Air Canada is poised to kick off negotiations with the union representing more than 10,000 flight attendants this year before the contract expires on March 31.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Sept. 16, 2024.

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Federal $500M bailout for Muskrat Falls power delays to keep N.S. rate hikes in check

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HALIFAX – Ottawa is negotiating a $500-million bailout for Nova Scotia’s privately owned electric utility, saying the money will be used to prevent a big spike in electricity rates.

Federal Natural Resources Minister Jonathan Wilkinson made the announcement today in Halifax, saying Nova Scotia Power Inc. needs the money to cover higher costs resulting from the delayed delivery of electricity from the Muskrat Falls hydroelectric plant in Labrador.

Wilkinson says that without the money, the subsidiary of Emera Inc. would have had to increase rates by 19 per cent over “the short term.”

Nova Scotia Power CEO Peter Gregg says the deal, once approved by the province’s energy regulator, will keep rate increases limited “to be around the rate of inflation,” as costs are spread over a number of years.

The utility helped pay for construction of an underwater transmission link between Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, but the Muskrat Falls project has not been consistent in delivering electricity over the past five years.

Those delays forced Nova Scotia Power to spend more on generating its own electricity.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Sept. 16, 2024.

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