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Can fast fashion slow down? It’s not that simple

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One of fast fashion’s biggest players says it’s taking major steps toward a more sustainable business model. But in an industry predicated on low cost, low quality and high production volume, experts say it won’t be simple.

“It’s hard to see how they actually deliver on their emissions reductions targets,” said Ken Pucker, a lecturer at the Fletcher School at Tufts University in Medford, Mass., who focuses on sustainability.

“Because volumes are going to continue to go up.”

In an ambitious new plan, Inditex, Zara’s parent company, announced earlier this month that it will seek to cut its emissions in half by 2030, and become net zero by 2040. It also says it will transition to using materials that last longer and are easier to recycle.

Inditex, the parent company of fast-fashion retailer Zara, announced on July 11 that it will aim to cut its emissions in half by 2030, and become net zero by 2040. (Andrea Comas/Reuters)

Experts say the move signals a shift toward a circular business model — meaning materials get reused and regenerated instead of thrown away — as the fashion industry faces more and more criticism over its outsized environmental footprint.

In 2021, the World Economic Forum identified the fashion industry as the world’s third-largest polluter. And as the trend cycle accelerates, most of the clothing purchased is only worn seven times before it’s thrown out, according to a 2015 British study.

In its new plan, Zara says 40 per cent of the Spanish-based international clothing chain’s fibres will come from recycled material, 25 per cent from sustainably farmed crops, and another 25 per cent from “next-generation materials” that Inditex is investing in.

The big problem, say experts, is that the company shows no signs of slowing production, raising questions around how realistic these targets are.

“To get to their targets, these things all have to happen yesterday. And I worry that there is insufficient financial incentive and time that will compromise their ability to deliver on their goals,” said Pucker.

Ken Pucker is a professor at the Fletcher School at Tufts University in Medford, Mass., who focuses on sustainability. (Submitted by Ken Pucker)

The fast fashion industry is expanding. Companies such as Shein and Fashion Nova, for instance, have gained huge popularity through social media, where Shein has 29.6 million followers on Instagram and people regularly post their fashion hauls on TikTok.

For fast fashion, the need to continually produce and grow presents a paradox, said Shivika Sinha, founder of the U.S.-based sustainable styling service Veneka.

“The paradox is that Zara is one of the originators of the fast-fashion model,” Sinha said. “It’s going to be tough for them to implement.”

Still, Sinha said she believes Zara’s targets are achievable.

“There is enough innovation on recycling for Zara to achieve these goals,” she said. “I think it’s a matter of Zara’s culture and where they prioritize their funding toward these sorts of projects, and how the EU is holding them accountable.”

Motivating companies to make less

Zara’s accelerated new goals come as the European Commission is drawing up a slew of new regulations that will require fashion companies to produce clothes in a more sustainable way and take accountability for their environmental impacts.

The Commission is proposing to introduce Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles in all EU member states, making producers responsible for the full life cycle of their products. Once implemented, producers would become responsible for the cost of managing their textile waste.

According to the European Environment Agency, in 2019, 46 per cent of Europe’s used textiles ended up in African countries. The agency says what isn’t fit for reuse often ends up in open landfills and informal waste streams.

The idea behind EPR schemes is to motivate companies to make fewer garments, said Kelly Drennan, executive director of Fashion Takes Action, a non-profit in Toronto.

“The more garments they make, the higher the cost is going to be to manage the end of life. So if they can actually slow down the production, produce less, then that is actually going to save them money in the end,” she said.

Kelly Drennan is the executive director of Fashion Takes Action, a Canadian non-profit that works to advance sustainability in the fashion industry. (Submitted by Kelly Drennan)

Drennan says she is hopeful of the impact Europe’s EPR rules could have on Canada.

“We’ll benefit, ultimately, from seeing clothing that is made from more sustainably sourced materials, that is more durable, that has the end of life considered at the time that it is being designed. And hopefully we’ll see less waste as a result.”

Is Canada falling behind?

In Canada, there are no EPR programs in place specifically for textiles, Drennan said. That’s because much of our waste is managed at a provincial or municipal level, with little harmonization across provinces.

Drennan estimates it will take approximately 10 years before Canada builds up to a textile EPR scheme for its own textile companies. Canadians toss nearly 500 million kilograms of fabric items every year, according to researchers at the University of Waterloo.

Without proper legislation, it’s up to companies to take the lead, Drennan said, noting policies like those in Europe are the only way the industry will make significant changes.

“While there are some leaders investing time, money and research into sustainability, circularity and human rights initiatives, most brands are not. And it’s going to take legislation for them to start thinking differently.”

Bales of sorted second-hand clothes are seen being piled up at a facility operated by Zheng-chuan textile recycling factory in New Taipei City, Taiwan, on July 15, 2022. Canadians alone toss nearly 500 million kilograms of fabric items every year, according to researchers at the University of Waterloo. (Annabelle Chih/Getty)

But even as fast-fashion companies such as Zara attempt to reduce their ecological footprint, Drennan anticipates an even bigger challenge for the industry: ultra-fast fashion.

“Historically, they (Zara, H&M) are the king and queen of fast fashion,” she said.

“The challenging aspect we’re facing right now is a new era of fast fashion, or what we’re calling ultra-fast fashion, with brands like Shein and Fashion Nova and Boohoo that are pumping out thousands of styles every single day. We’re hopeful that EPR legislation will impact those brands down the road.”

An aerial view of used clothes discarded in the Atacama Desert in Alto Hospicio, Chile. (Martin Bernetti/AFP/Getty Images)

 

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Telus prioritizing ‘most important customers,’ avoiding ‘unprofitable’ offers: CFO

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Telus Corp. says it is avoiding offering “unprofitable” discounts as fierce competition in the Canadian telecommunications sector shows no sign of slowing down.

The company said Friday it had fewer net new customers during its third quarter compared with the same time last year, as it copes with increasingly “aggressive marketing and promotional pricing” that is prompting more customers to switch providers.

Telus said it added 347,000 net new customers, down around 14.5 per cent compared with last year. The figure includes 130,000 mobile phone subscribers and 34,000 internet customers, down 30,000 and 3,000, respectively, year-over-year.

The company reported its mobile phone churn rate — a metric measuring subscribers who cancelled their services — was 1.09 per cent in the third quarter, up from 1.03 per cent in the third quarter of 2023. That included a postpaid mobile phone churn rate of 0.90 per cent in its latest quarter.

Telus said its focus is on customer retention through its “industry-leading service and network quality, along with successful promotions and bundled offerings.”

“The customers we have are the most important customers we can get,” said chief financial officer Doug French in an interview.

“We’ve, again, just continued to focus on what matters most to our customers, from a product and customer service perspective, while not loading unprofitable customers.”

Meanwhile, Telus reported its net income attributable to common shares more than doubled during its third quarter.

The telecommunications company said it earned $280 million, up 105.9 per cent from the same three-month period in 2023. Earnings per diluted share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 was 19 cents compared with nine cents a year earlier.

It reported adjusted net income was $413 million, up 10.7 per cent year-over-year from $373 million in the same quarter last year. Operating revenue and other income for the quarter was $5.1 billion, up 1.8 per cent from the previous year.

Mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.85 in the third quarter, a decrease of $2.09 or 3.4 per cent from a year ago. Telus said the drop was attributable to customers signing up for base rate plans with lower prices, along with a decline in overage and roaming revenues.

It said customers are increasingly adopting unlimited data and Canada-U.S. plans which provide higher and more stable ARPU on a monthly basis.

“In a tough operating environment and relative to peers, we view Q3 results that were in line to slightly better than forecast as the best of the bunch,” said RBC analyst Drew McReynolds in a note.

Scotiabank analyst Maher Yaghi added that “the telecom industry in Canada remains very challenging for all players, however, Telus has been able to face these pressures” and still deliver growth.

The Big 3 telecom providers — which also include Rogers Communications Inc. and BCE Inc. — have frequently stressed that the market has grown more competitive in recent years, especially after the closing of Quebecor Inc.’s purchase of Freedom Mobile in April 2023.

Hailed as a fourth national carrier, Quebecor has invested in enhancements to Freedom’s network while offering more affordable plans as part of a set of commitments it was mandated by Ottawa to agree to.

The cost of telephone services in September was down eight per cent compared with a year earlier, according to Statistics Canada’s most recent inflation report last month.

“I think competition has been and continues to be, I’d say, quite intense in Canada, and we’ve obviously had to just manage our business the way we see fit,” said French.

Asked how long that environment could last, he said that’s out of Telus’ hands.

“What I can control, though, is how we go to market and how we lead with our products,” he said.

“I think the conditions within the market will have to adjust accordingly over time. We’ve continued to focus on digitization, continued to bring our cost structure down to compete, irrespective of the price and the current market conditions.”

Still, Canada’s telecom regulator continues to warn providers about customers facing more charges on their cellphone and internet bills.

On Tuesday, CRTC vice-president of consumer, analytics and strategy Scott Hutton called on providers to ensure they clearly inform their customers of charges such as early cancellation fees.

That followed statements from the regulator in recent weeks cautioning against rising international roaming fees and “surprise” price increases being found on their bills.

Hutton said the CRTC plans to launch public consultations in the coming weeks that will focus “on ensuring that information is clear and consistent, making it easier to compare offers and switch services or providers.”

“The CRTC is concerned with recent trends, which suggest that Canadians may not be benefiting from the full protections of our codes,” he said.

“We will continue to monitor developments and will take further action if our codes are not being followed.”

French said any initiative to boost transparency is a step in the right direction.

“I can’t say we are perfect across the board, but what I can say is we are absolutely taking it under consideration and trying to be the best at communicating with our customers,” he said.

“I think everyone looking in the mirror would say there’s room for improvement.”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 8, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:T)

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TC Energy cuts cost estimate for Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico

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CALGARY – TC Energy Corp. has lowered the estimated cost of its Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico.

It says it now expects the project to cost between US$3.9 billion and US$4.1 billion compared with its original estimate of US$4.5 billion.

The change came as the company reported a third-quarter profit attributable to common shareholders of C$1.46 billion or $1.40 per share compared with a loss of C$197 million or 19 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

Revenue for the quarter ended Sept. 30 totalled C$4.08 billion, up from C$3.94 billion in the third quarter of 2023.

TC Energy says its comparable earnings for its latest quarter amounted to C$1.03 per share compared with C$1.00 per share a year earlier.

The average analyst estimate had been for a profit of 95 cents per share, according to LSEG Data & Analytics.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:TRP)

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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BCE reports Q3 loss on asset impairment charge, cuts revenue guidance

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BCE Inc. reported a loss in its latest quarter as it recorded $2.11 billion in asset impairment charges, mainly related to Bell Media’s TV and radio properties.

The company says its net loss attributable to common shareholders amounted to $1.24 billion or $1.36 per share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 compared with a profit of $640 million or 70 cents per share a year earlier.

On an adjusted basis, BCE says it earned 75 cents per share in its latest quarter compared with an adjusted profit of 81 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

“Bell’s results for the third quarter demonstrate that we are disciplined in our pursuit of profitable growth in an intensely competitive environment,” BCE chief executive Mirko Bibic said in a statement.

“Our focus this quarter, and throughout 2024, has been to attract higher-margin subscribers and reduce costs to help offset short-term revenue impacts from sustained competitive pricing pressures, slow economic growth and a media advertising market that is in transition.”

Operating revenue for the quarter totalled $5.97 billion, down from $6.08 billion in its third quarter of 2023.

BCE also said it now expects its revenue for 2024 to fall about 1.5 per cent compared with earlier guidance for an increase of zero to four per cent.

The company says the change comes as it faces lower-than-anticipated wireless product revenue and sustained pressure on wireless prices.

BCE added 33,111 net postpaid mobile phone subscribers, down 76.8 per cent from the same period last year, which was the company’s second-best performance on the metric since 2010.

It says the drop was driven by higher customer churn — a measure of subscribers who cancelled their service — amid greater competitive activity and promotional offer intensity. BCE’s monthly churn rate for the category was 1.28 per cent, up from 1.1 per cent during its previous third quarter.

The company also saw 11.6 per cent fewer gross subscriber activations “due to more targeted promotional offers and mobile device discounting compared to last year.”

Bell’s wireless mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.26, down 3.4 per cent from $60.28 in the third quarter of the prior year.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:BCE)

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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