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Scientists tricked our brains into craving ultraprocessed foods – and now people are fighting back

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Illustration by Allison & Cam

Until recently I thought I was making wise choices about food. My cupboards are full of products touted as “natural, “healthy” and “organic,” with packaging that promises they are “low in sodium,” contain “no trans fat” and put “fibre first.”

Then I started to hear more about the hidden dangers of ultraprocessed foods (UPFs) and I thought I’d better take a closer look in my pantry and fridge. Turns out I’m not so smart after all.

The “light” dairy creamer we use has eight ingredients including maltodextrin, disodium phosphate and guar gum – bewildering terms for man-made emulsifiers, preservatives and flavour enhancers. The low-fat blueberry yogurt has 29 grams of sugar – almost as much as a Twinkie (which has 32 grams). And the ancient grains granola I’ve eaten every morning for the past five years is loaded with cane sugar, which has few nutrients and lots of calories.

None of these foods are as heavily processed as, say, potato chips, most breakfast cereals and frozen pizza, but they still do qualify as ultraprocessed, which basically means they are industrially manufactured, ready-to-eat or heat, and include ingredients not typically found in home kitchens.

The quick inventory I took of my own kitchen (which didn’t include my snack drawer) made it painfully clear I needed to do more homework on UPFs, why we buy so much of them and how we can break this bad habit, which new research shows is a leading cause of obesity in North America. In the U.S., more than 42 per cent of Americans are considered obese (according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention). In Canada, it’s 27 per cent (Health Canada).

Despite a steady stream of research linking UPFs to health conditions including cardiovascular disease, diabetes, cancer and depression, Canadians consume roughly 50 per cent of our calories from these foods, says the Heart & Stroke Foundation. That means in grocery stores we are mostly shopping in the middle aisles, where shelves are lined with products that have been significantly changed from their original state with salt, sugar, fat, additives, preservatives or artificial colours.

Given the negative publicity swirling around these aggressively modified foods, it seems preposterous that we continue to consume so much. The reason might be that we can’t help ourselves.

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Salt Sugar Fat, by Michael Moss.Handout

Michael Moss, the author and Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist (for a series he did on contaminated meat), blames the major food companies. “Big Food has made a science of hooking us on the ‘bliss point’ of sugar, the ‘flavour burst’ of salt and the ‘mouthfeel’ of fat, to use industry parlance,” says Moss.

In his latest book called Hooked: Food, Free Will, and How the Food Giants Exploit Our Addictions, Moss compares food cravings with compulsions for nicotine and heroin. “People say to me, ‘It’s ridiculous to compare cookies to heroin.’ But these products are designed by some of the top scientists in the world to get the perfect formulation of salt, sugar and fat to get us not just to like these products but to want more and more of them. The power of the products is the speed at which they hit the brain. Tobacco smoke can take 10 seconds to make you want to smoke more. Sugar can excite the brain in less than one second.“

This puts the term “fast food” in a new light.

To be clear, not all processed foods are bad for us. In fact, almost all foods in the grocery store have been processed in some way – even whole foods like fresh fruit and vegetables have been washed, trimmed, shelled, husked or wrapped before they end up in your cart. “Processing” – whether it’s canning, freezing, drying or pasteurizing – refers to all food processing techniques.

What has changed since the end of the Second World War is the extent of processing, says Dr. Vera Tarman, medical director of Renascent, one of Canada’s largest treatment centres for substance abuse, including food addiction. “Food companies wanted to make foods that are sustainable, so they put in lots of sugar and salt to make it last,” she says. However, since the 1980s and 1990s, companies began engineering UPFs at an accelerated pace, marketing them as convenient, inexpensive and good for you because they are fortified with vitamins and can be kept for a long time.

“They have literally flooded the market to the point that some of food’s protective elements have been stripped away and most people haven’t a clue just how much the products they buy have been pumped up,” says Tarman, who wrote the 2019 book Food Junkies: Recovery From Food Addiction. She points to obvious UPF offenders such as Kraft “cheese” slices “which are not called a food any more. It’s a processed cheese product.”

Other items, however, are harder to spot. Most energy bars are “sugar bombs wrapped in protein wrappers.” And in many plant-based meat products “even the real ingredients like soy have been extracted and processed to the point where they are nothing like the real plant food they came from.”

Food addiction, Tarman says, is one of the major, unacknowledged drivers of the obesity and diabetes crises we now face. “Sure, genetics play a role, but we know when people don’t eat this stuff, they don’t get diabetes. Drugs like Ozempic, used to treat diabetes and now used by far too many people as a dietary tool, are just a Band-Aid. It’s expensive and it’s not sustainable. When you go off a drug like this you gain all the pounds back. We need to target the problem at its source – by putting more stringent regulations on food companies.”

Not surprisingly, Big Food and their lobbying allies are marshalling a defence. As The Wall Street Journal recently reported, they are pushing back against U.S. government probes into the health effects of heavily processed foods as well as any potential changes to national dietary guidelines, arguing that processing has made food safe, convenient and affordable.

U.K.-based infectious diseases doctor, author and broadcaster Chris van Tulleken has heard these claims before and is prepared for a lengthy fight. “They can say all they want but almost every aspect of UPFs is harmful to the body and the planet,” says van Tulleken, whose new book is Ultra-Processed People: Why We Can’t Stop Eating Food That Isn’t Food. “The destruction of the food structure by processing means that UPFs are, in general, soft – think supermarket bread or a doughnut. UPFs are also dry, which prolongs their shelf life and often means they are calorie-dense. The combination of calorie density and softness means that you can eat far more calories per mouthful than many other foods.”

He adds: “UPFs also have drastically reduced levels of phytochemicals – the thousands of molecules in plants that are essential for dietary health.” Given that, he wants front-of-package warning labels – similar to those already adopted in countries such as Peru, Chile, Mexico, Uruguay and Brazil – to be put on UPFs.

“When packages are labelled properly, we have evidence that children ask their parents to buy different food just like we told our parents to quit smoking.” (Canada announced new front-of-package labels that warn of products high in sodium, sugars and saturated fat in 2022. Food companies have until Jan. 1, 2026, to start displaying the new labels).

In May, van Tulleken will be a keynote speaker at the International Food Addiction Consensus Conference in London, where scientists, doctors and researchers who are concerned about UPFs will gather to present a consensus statement to submit to the World Health Organization. They want food addiction to be assigned a specific code in the International Classification of Diseases. The code, he says, is the first step in publicly recognizing food addiction – particularly UPF addiction – as a legitimate issue. The designation will also help validate and support treatment for people who struggle with food addiction.

It is important to note that many health care professionals dispute the notion that any food is addictive. They point to the fact that there is no one compound in UPFs that can be singled out as causing an altered state of mind such as with cigarettes and alcohol.

As Dr. David Wiss, a registered dietitian nutritionist (RDN) in Los Angeles, explains, there is a “very clear tension in the eating disorder field” because many doctors are hesitant to lump food into the same category of addictive substances as drugs and alcohol. “Those of us who write papers on addictive eating have really transitioned to using the term ultraprocessed food addiction because it offers more specificity,” says Wiss, founder of Nutrition in Recovery, which specializes in the treatment of eating and substance abuse disorders. “Food addiction is vague, and it implies an apple, almond or banana has addictive properties, which obviously they do not. We want to make it specific to UPFs because then the discussion focuses less on the individual and more on the food environment,” says Wiss.

Clarissa Kennedy, a certified mental-health and addiction clinician based in Parry Sound, Ont., is living proof of how difficult it is to find help. For 17 years, the 44-year-old has tried to control her love/hate relationship with food, which led to anorexia, then bulimia, then laxative use. “I grew up in that era where fat was bad, so to avoid eating those foods I was eating a lot of ultraprocessed stuff that was low in fat, but full of sugar and other additives.”

In 2017, she checked into Renascent where she met Tarman, who assured her food addiction was real. She started eating a diet rich in whole and minimally processed foods. A lightbulb went off. “When I changed the way I eat, it created some healing in my brain, which is where addiction lives. It also allowed me to regulate my relationship with food. I soon realized the only time I experienced loss of control was when I was eating ultraprocessed foods.”

Last November, Kennedy co-founded an online coaching platform, called Sweet Sobriety, to help others like her. She is also a lead organizer of the conference this May in England. “Our goal is only to be able to help those who are struggling with a chemical dependence on these foods, not to remove anyone’s free choice to consume these products,” she says. “For many people, it’s all they can afford to eat.”

“I’m not naive. Ultraprocessed foods will still be on our supermarket shelves, I believe, indefinitely in my lifetime. We just want to allow people informed consent so that they know there is a risk they are taking when they choose these foods for themselves and their families.”

Ultraprocessed food products are everywhere. Here’s how to avoid them

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Illustration by Allison & Cam

UPFs – which include breakfast cereals sweeter than chocolate bars and ready-made meals packed with salt and preservatives – line the shelves of grocery stores, making healthy food shopping a challenge. We asked nutrition experts for tips on how to shop smarter:

  • Stick to the outer aisles of the grocery store, where typically the fruits, vegetables and organic products are located. And shop carefully in the middle aisles – home to breakfast cereals, snacks, carbonated beverages etc.
  • Generally speaking, the shorter the ingredient list, the better. It means there is less processing involved. Always think, “Would I find these ingredients in my kitchen?” Some ingredients you might want to avoid include hydrogenated vegetable oils and tropical oils such as palm oil, sodium nitrite or nitrate, carrageenan, guar gum, sodium benzoate, yeast extract and high-fructose corn syrup. To name a few.
  • Don’t be swayed by hype. UPFs are often marketed as “healthy,” “natural” and “organic.” Those words may describe the original ingredients but they don’t refer to the process of how the food was made.
  • There is a big difference, health-wise, between foods that are minimally processed (a jar of tomato sauce, canned tuna or green beans, frozen fruit and veggies) and ones that are ultraprocessed (frozen lasagna, premade meals and most breads you buy in a grocery store). Lightly processed foods may contain one or two more components such as salt, sugars or oils, but seldom have more than three or four.
  • If you buy ultraprocessed bread always choose whole grain over refined grain. Fresh bakery breads, on the other hand, are rarely ultraprocessed.
  • Be an informed consumer. Question everything. Get to know companies that are committed to cleaner food. This takes time, but the more you shop as an informed consumer, the more innate purchasing real food products will become.

 

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Health Canada approves updated Moderna COVID-19 vaccine

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TORONTO – Health Canada has authorized Moderna’s updated COVID-19 vaccine that protects against currently circulating variants of the virus.

The mRNA vaccine, called Spikevax, has been reformulated to target the KP.2 subvariant of Omicron.

It will replace the previous version of the vaccine that was released a year ago, which targeted the XBB.1.5 subvariant of Omicron.

Health Canada recently asked provinces and territories to get rid of their older COVID-19 vaccines to ensure the most current vaccine will be used during this fall’s respiratory virus season.

Health Canada is also reviewing two other updated COVID-19 vaccines but has not yet authorized them.

They are Pfizer’s Comirnaty, which is also an mRNA vaccine, as well as Novavax’s protein-based vaccine.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Sept. 17, 2024.

Canadian Press health coverage receives support through a partnership with the Canadian Medical Association. CP is solely responsible for this content.

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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These people say they got listeria after drinking recalled plant-based milks

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TORONTO – Sanniah Jabeen holds a sonogram of the unborn baby she lost after contracting listeria last December. Beneath, it says “love at first sight.”

Jabeen says she believes she and her baby were poisoned by a listeria outbreak linked to some plant-based milks and wants answers. An investigation continues into the recall declared July 8 of several Silk and Great Value plant-based beverages.

“I don’t even have the words. I’m still processing that,” Jabeen says of her loss. She was 18 weeks pregnant when she went into preterm labour.

The first infection linked to the recall was traced back to August 2023. One year later on Aug. 12, 2024, the Public Health Agency of Canada said three people had died and 20 were infected.

The number of cases is likely much higher, says Lawrence Goodridge, Canada Research Chair in foodborne pathogen dynamics at the University of Guelph: “For every person known, generally speaking, there’s typically 20 to 25 or maybe 30 people that are unknown.”

The case count has remained unchanged over the last month, but the Public Health Agency of Canada says it won’t declare the outbreak over until early October because of listeria’s 70-day incubation period and the reporting delays that accompany it.

Danone Canada’s head of communications said in an email Wednesday that the company is still investigating the “root cause” of the outbreak, which has been linked to a production line at a Pickering, Ont., packaging facility.

Pregnant people, adults over 60, and those with weakened immune systems are most at risk of becoming sick with severe listeriosis. If the infection spreads to an unborn baby, Health Canada says it can cause miscarriage, stillbirth, premature birth or life-threatening illness in a newborn.

The Canadian Press spoke to 10 people, from the parents of a toddler to an 89-year-old senior, who say they became sick with listeria after drinking from cartons of plant-based milk stamped with the recalled product code. Here’s a look at some of their experiences.

Sanniah Jabeen, 32, Toronto

Jabeen says she regularly drank Silk oat and almond milk in smoothies while pregnant, and began vomiting seven times a day and shivering at night in December 2023. She had “the worst headache of (her) life” when she went to the emergency room on Dec. 15.

“I just wasn’t functioning like a normal human being,” Jabeen says.

Told she was dehydrated, Jabeen was given fluids and a blood test and sent home. Four days later, she returned to hospital.

“They told me that since you’re 18 weeks, there’s nothing you can do to save your baby,” says Jabeen, who moved to Toronto from Pakistan five years ago.

Jabeen later learned she had listeriosis and an autopsy revealed her baby was infected, too.

“It broke my heart to read that report because I was just imagining my baby drinking poisoned amniotic fluid inside of me. The womb is a place where your baby is supposed to be the safest,” Jabeen said.

Jabeen’s case is likely not included in PHAC’s count. Jabeen says she was called by Health Canada and asked what dairy and fresh produce she ate – foods more commonly associated with listeria – but not asked about plant-based beverages.

She’s pregnant again, and is due in several months. At first, she was scared to eat, not knowing what caused the infection during her last pregnancy.

“Ever since I learned about the almond, oat milk situation, I’ve been feeling a bit better knowing that it wasn’t something that I did. It was something else that caused it. It wasn’t my fault,” Jabeen said.

She’s since joined a proposed class action lawsuit launched by LPC Avocates against the manufacturers and sellers of Silk and Great Value plant-based beverages. The lawsuit has not yet been certified by a judge.

Natalie Grant and her seven year-old daughter, Bowmanville, Ont.

Natalie Grant says she was in a hospital waiting room when she saw a television news report about the recall. She wondered if the dark chocolate almond milk her daughter drank daily was contaminated.

She had brought the girl to hospital because she was vomiting every half hour, constantly on the toilet with diarrhea, and had severe pain in her abdomen.

“I’m definitely thinking that this is a pretty solid chance that she’s got listeria at this point because I knew she had all the symptoms,” Grant says of seeing the news report.

Once her daughter could hold fluids, they went home and Grant cross-checked the recalled product code – 7825 – with the one on her carton. They matched.

“I called the emerg and I said I’m pretty confident she’s been exposed,” Grant said. She was told to return to the hospital if her daughter’s symptoms worsened. An hour and a half later, her fever spiked, the vomiting returned, her face flushed and her energy plummeted.

Grant says they were sent to a hospital in Ajax, Ont. and stayed two weeks while her daughter received antibiotics four times a day until she was discharged July 23.

“Knowing that my little one was just so affected and how it affected us as a family alone, there’s a bitterness left behind,” Grant said. She’s also joined the proposed class action.

Thelma Feldman, 89, Toronto

Thelma Feldman says she regularly taught yoga to friends in her condo building before getting sickened by listeria on July 2. Now, she has a walker and her body aches. She has headaches and digestive problems.

“I’m kind of depressed,” she says.

“It’s caused me a lot of physical and emotional pain.”

Much of the early days of her illness are a blur. She knows she boarded an ambulance with profuse diarrhea on July 2 and spent five days at North York General Hospital. Afterwards, she remembers Health Canada officials entering her apartment and removing Silk almond milk from her fridge, and volunteers from a community organization giving her sponge baths.

“At my age, 89, I’m not a kid anymore and healing takes longer,” Feldman says.

“I don’t even feel like being with people. I just sit at home.”

Jasmine Jiles and three-year-old Max, Kahnawake Mohawk Territory, Que.

Jasmine Jiles says her three-year-old son Max came down with flu-like symptoms and cradled his ears in what she interpreted as a sign of pain, like the one pounding in her own head, around early July.

When Jiles heard about the recall soon after, she called Danone Canada, the plant-based milk manufacturer, to find out if their Silk coconut milk was in the contaminated batch. It was, she says.

“My son is very small, he’s very young, so I asked what we do in terms of overall monitoring and she said someone from the company would get in touch within 24 to 48 hours,” Jiles says from a First Nations reserve near Montreal.

“I never got a call back. I never got an email”

At home, her son’s fever broke after three days, but gas pains stuck with him, she says. It took a couple weeks for him to get back to normal.

“In hindsight, I should have taken him (to the hospital) but we just tried to see if we could nurse him at home because wait times are pretty extreme,” Jiles says, “and I don’t have child care at the moment.”

Joseph Desmond, 50, Sydney, N.S.

Joseph Desmond says he suffered a seizure and fell off his sofa on July 9. He went to the emergency room, where they ran an electroencephalogram (EEG) test, and then returned home. Within hours, he had a second seizure and went back to hospital.

His third seizure happened the next morning while walking to the nurse’s station.

In severe cases of listeriosis, bacteria can spread to the central nervous system and cause seizures, according to Health Canada.

“The last two months have really been a nightmare,” says Desmond, who has joined the proposed lawsuit.

When he returned home from the hospital, his daughter took a carton of Silk dark chocolate almond milk out of the fridge and asked if he had heard about the recall. By that point, Desmond says he was on his second two-litre carton after finishing the first in June.

“It was pretty scary. Terrifying. I honestly thought I was going to die.”

Cheryl McCombe, 63, Haliburton, Ont.

The morning after suffering a second episode of vomiting, feverish sweats and diarrhea in the middle of the night in early July, Cheryl McCombe scrolled through the news on her phone and came across the recall.

A few years earlier, McCombe says she started drinking plant-based milks because it seemed like a healthier choice to splash in her morning coffee. On June 30, she bought two cartons of Silk cashew almond milk.

“It was on the (recall) list. I thought, ‘Oh my God, I got listeria,’” McCombe says. She called her doctor’s office and visited an urgent care clinic hoping to get tested and confirm her suspicion, but she says, “I was basically shut down at the door.”

Public Health Ontario does not recommend listeria testing for infected individuals with mild symptoms unless they are at risk of developing severe illness, such as people who are immunocompromised, elderly, pregnant or newborn.

“No wonder they couldn’t connect the dots,” she adds, referencing that it took close to a year for public health officials to find the source of the outbreak.

“I am a woman in my 60s and sometimes these signs are of, you know, when you’re vomiting and things like that, it can be a sign in women of a bigger issue,” McCombe says. She was seeking confirmation that wasn’t the case.

Disappointed, with her stomach still feeling off, she says she decided to boost her gut health with probiotics. After a couple weeks she started to feel like herself.

But since then, McCombe says, “I’m back on Kawartha Dairy cream in my coffee.”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Sept. 16, 2024.

Canadian Press health coverage receives support through a partnership with the Canadian Medical Association. CP is solely responsible for this content.

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B.C. mayors seek ‘immediate action’ from federal government on mental health crisis

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VANCOUVER – Mayors and other leaders from several British Columbia communities say the provincial and federal governments need to take “immediate action” to tackle mental health and public safety issues that have reached crisis levels.

Vancouver Mayor Ken Sim says it’s become “abundantly clear” that mental health and addiction issues and public safety have caused crises that are “gripping” Vancouver, and he and other politicians, First Nations leaders and law enforcement officials are pleading for federal and provincial help.

In a letter to Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and Premier David Eby, mayors say there are “three critical fronts” that require action including “mandatory care” for people with severe mental health and addiction issues.

The letter says senior governments also need to bring in “meaningful bail reform” for repeat offenders, and the federal government must improve policing at Metro Vancouver ports to stop illicit drugs from coming in and stolen vehicles from being exported.

Sim says the “current system” has failed British Columbians, and the number of people dealing with severe mental health and addiction issues due to lack of proper care has “reached a critical point.”

Vancouver Police Chief Adam Palmer says repeat violent offenders are too often released on bail due to a “revolving door of justice,” and a new approach is needed to deal with mentally ill people who “pose a serious and immediate danger to themselves and others.”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Sept. 16, 2024

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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