The invitation for Marine Serre’s spring 2024 show was a concert T-shirt. Printed on the front was a black-and-white portrait of the designer, and on the back, her past collections were listed like tour dates.
Serre isn’t mulling a career switch: the merch was a teaser for the musicians who walked in her show. Miguel, Teyana Taylor, Noah Cyrus, Brooke Candy and Sevdaliza were among those who donned her upcycled looks against a pounding backdrop of electronic dance music and flashing lights, as members of the public stood behind metal barriers to watch.
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Coming on the heels of Pharrell Williams’ debut show for Louis Vuitton, the display underlined the growing synergies between fashion and music, with runway shows becoming 360-degree entertainments.
“[The] music industry is coming into fashion and I think the opposite is also happening, so I think things are merging, and for me, it’s always what I wanted, so I feel really happy with that,” Serre said.
Stylistically, the collection was a remix of the eco-conscious designer’s greatest hits.
Taylor rocked a thigh-skimming dress in a patchwork of upcycled T-shirts and mismatched scarves shooting out over one hip, while Candy showed off her tattoos in a cutout dress made from a repurposed beach towel printed with an oversize toucan — one of a series of terry-cloth pieces featuring bright images of animals, or a hibiscus motif blended with a Marine Serre logo.
In a nod to hip-hop, the designer put her name on belt buckles, chokers and chunky pendants. Meanwhile, the cone bras worked into crochet and denim pieces brought to mind Madonna’s “Blonde Ambition” corset by Jean Paul Gaultier. “She’s like a goddess,” Serre said.
Not all the pairings were a smash. Cyrus looked uneasy in a nude bodysuit printed with Serre’s signature crescent moon pattern and draped with panels of shiny black jersey that echoed her oil-slicked locks.
But Miguel, who has performed at Michael Kors and Victoria’s Secret shows, was a natural, strutting in a sleek black lozenge-patterned suit and shirt. Perhaps the most stage-ready looks were those made from a new, metal-free silver leather that bathed the wearer in a halo of light.
“I just wanted to have some fun,” said Serre, who’s known for her dire warnings about the climate crisis. “I think the world is dystopian and it’s difficult to live in that, but I try to bring new energy, good vibes, even when it’s hard to find anything good.”
Launch Gallery: Marine Serre RTW Spring 2024
