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Would you buy a diamond made in a lab? Consumers are taking a shine to them

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When Evelyn Schaffer first saw her engagement ring, she was speechless. It was a 0.76-carat, oval-cut stunner — and she said no one has been able to tell that the diamonds were created in a lab.

“I’ve never seen anything like it and it’s gorgeous,” Schaffer said. “The lab-grown diamonds are actually more sparkly in my opinion.”

As consumer awareness grows, the popularity of gems that are manufactured, not mined, is surging. By some estimates, lab-grown diamonds make up nearly 20 per cent of the total global diamond jewelry market.

Evelyn Schaffer and Ene Mwadi chose a lab-grown diamond engagement ring.
Evelyn Schaffer and Ene Mwadi chose a lab-grown diamond engagement ring. The sustainability was a draw, and so was the price, as Schaffer said she ‘didn’t want us to start our marriage with a bunch of debt over a ring.’ (David Bajer/CBC)

Schaffer, a 30-year-old music teacher, and her fiancé, Ene Mwadi, 26, said their motivation was partly financial. Recent innovations have made lab-grown diamonds much more affordable, with some one-carat rings available for less than $2,000 — nearly 70 per cent cheaper than their natural counterparts.

“I didn’t want us to start our marriage with a bunch of debt over a ring,” Schaffer said.

The Edmonton couple also had concerns about traditional diamonds, which are often associated with environmental damage and labour abuses in the developing world.

For Mwadi, whose family left Congo because of the conflict stemming from resource mining, it was important to avoid that harm.

“With lab grown, it’s just kind of a way to help with sustainability,” he said.

How it’s done

One way to create a lab-grown diamond mimics how they’re formed in gas clouds in outer space.

Technicians place a sliver of pre-existing mined diamond, like a tiny carbon seed, inside a plasma chamber and expose it to the right temperature, pressure and gasses. The process releases carbon pieces, which layer onto the seed, growing the diamond.

Lab-grown diamonds can be created in just a few weeks, compared to natural diamonds which take millions of years to form deep beneath the earth.

U.S.-based Vrai is one of the few companies that controls its entire supply chain, from growing and cutting the diamond to designing the ring and delivering it to the consumer.

For a long time, the only option was mined diamonds that have “environmental and human tolls on the communities they come from,” said Vrai CEO Mona Akhavi. “We are looking at an industry that’s changing.”

The company is expanding across North America and Europe; it opened its first Canadian showroom in Toronto earlier this year. Akhavi said Vrai is seeing huge demand from millennial and Gen Z consumers.

“They feel good about their purchase because they didn’t make any compromises on their values.”

The Vrai Foundry in the U.S. Pacific Northwest where it creates its diamonds.
The Vrai Foundry in the U.S. Pacific Northwest where it creates its diamonds. (Vrai)

Dazzling growth

Global sales for lab-grown diamonds increased to $12 billion in 2022, up 38 per cent compared to the year before, according to New York-based diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky.

That rapid growth has attracted the attention of mainstream jewelry giants like Pandora and Swarovski, which have launched their own lab-grown diamond lines.

Luxury brands are beginning to embrace the created stones, with Prada introducing them into its latest fine jewelry collection. The gems are also showing up on red carpets, shining bright when worn by celebrities like Taylor Swift, Jennifer Lopez and Pamela Anderson.

The technology behind human-made gems has been around for decades, but recent advances have improved quality and lowered production costs.

Diamond expert Michael Nehme holds rings featuring lab-grown diamonds at the Vrai Yorkville, Toronto, showroom on Dec. 8, 2023.
Nehme holds rings featuring lab-grown diamonds at the Vrai’s Yorkville showroom earlier this month. The company says it is seeing huge demand from millennial and Gen Z consumers. (Evan Mitsui/CBC)

Real, but not rare

In 2018, the U.S. Federal Trade Commission changed its guidelines to declare that lab-grown diamonds are virtually the same as mined diamonds, with equal optical, physical and chemical properties.

They’re also graded and certified using the same standards, from independent gemological organisations.

While they may be real, they’re not rare. Zimnisky forecasts an almost unlimited supply of lab-grown diamonds could continue to drive down prices.

“It’s a manufactured product, so theoretically we could produce as many as we want,” he said.

He warned that created stones could be difficult to resell as they don’t hold as much value, offering the example of two works of art: one an original by Leonardo da Vinci, another produced with the same canvas and oil paints.

“The one is still worth significantly more and much more desirable than the other one.”

Diamonds at a discount

For many consumers, the cost savings are the ultimate attraction.

Toronto jeweller Couple Diamonds is doing big business selling only lab-grown stones.

“A lot of my clients just find a better value if they can get either a bigger stone or a higher quality stone for a fraction of the price,” said general manager Dave Doiron.

Lab-grown diamond jewellery at Couple Diamonds in Toronto.
Lab-grown diamond jewelry at Couple Diamonds in Toronto. (Laura MacNaughton/CBC)

Some of his customers have traded their mined diamond engagement rings for lab-grown ones with a larger stone, while others have come in looking for non-bridal jewelry like necklaces and tennis bracelets. Doiron says acceptance of the gems is growing.

“A diamond is a diamond whether the diamond is mined outside or whether it’s made in a lab.”

 

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Telus prioritizing ‘most important customers,’ avoiding ‘unprofitable’ offers: CFO

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Telus Corp. says it is avoiding offering “unprofitable” discounts as fierce competition in the Canadian telecommunications sector shows no sign of slowing down.

The company said Friday it had fewer net new customers during its third quarter compared with the same time last year, as it copes with increasingly “aggressive marketing and promotional pricing” that is prompting more customers to switch providers.

Telus said it added 347,000 net new customers, down around 14.5 per cent compared with last year. The figure includes 130,000 mobile phone subscribers and 34,000 internet customers, down 30,000 and 3,000, respectively, year-over-year.

The company reported its mobile phone churn rate — a metric measuring subscribers who cancelled their services — was 1.09 per cent in the third quarter, up from 1.03 per cent in the third quarter of 2023. That included a postpaid mobile phone churn rate of 0.90 per cent in its latest quarter.

Telus said its focus is on customer retention through its “industry-leading service and network quality, along with successful promotions and bundled offerings.”

“The customers we have are the most important customers we can get,” said chief financial officer Doug French in an interview.

“We’ve, again, just continued to focus on what matters most to our customers, from a product and customer service perspective, while not loading unprofitable customers.”

Meanwhile, Telus reported its net income attributable to common shares more than doubled during its third quarter.

The telecommunications company said it earned $280 million, up 105.9 per cent from the same three-month period in 2023. Earnings per diluted share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 was 19 cents compared with nine cents a year earlier.

It reported adjusted net income was $413 million, up 10.7 per cent year-over-year from $373 million in the same quarter last year. Operating revenue and other income for the quarter was $5.1 billion, up 1.8 per cent from the previous year.

Mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.85 in the third quarter, a decrease of $2.09 or 3.4 per cent from a year ago. Telus said the drop was attributable to customers signing up for base rate plans with lower prices, along with a decline in overage and roaming revenues.

It said customers are increasingly adopting unlimited data and Canada-U.S. plans which provide higher and more stable ARPU on a monthly basis.

“In a tough operating environment and relative to peers, we view Q3 results that were in line to slightly better than forecast as the best of the bunch,” said RBC analyst Drew McReynolds in a note.

Scotiabank analyst Maher Yaghi added that “the telecom industry in Canada remains very challenging for all players, however, Telus has been able to face these pressures” and still deliver growth.

The Big 3 telecom providers — which also include Rogers Communications Inc. and BCE Inc. — have frequently stressed that the market has grown more competitive in recent years, especially after the closing of Quebecor Inc.’s purchase of Freedom Mobile in April 2023.

Hailed as a fourth national carrier, Quebecor has invested in enhancements to Freedom’s network while offering more affordable plans as part of a set of commitments it was mandated by Ottawa to agree to.

The cost of telephone services in September was down eight per cent compared with a year earlier, according to Statistics Canada’s most recent inflation report last month.

“I think competition has been and continues to be, I’d say, quite intense in Canada, and we’ve obviously had to just manage our business the way we see fit,” said French.

Asked how long that environment could last, he said that’s out of Telus’ hands.

“What I can control, though, is how we go to market and how we lead with our products,” he said.

“I think the conditions within the market will have to adjust accordingly over time. We’ve continued to focus on digitization, continued to bring our cost structure down to compete, irrespective of the price and the current market conditions.”

Still, Canada’s telecom regulator continues to warn providers about customers facing more charges on their cellphone and internet bills.

On Tuesday, CRTC vice-president of consumer, analytics and strategy Scott Hutton called on providers to ensure they clearly inform their customers of charges such as early cancellation fees.

That followed statements from the regulator in recent weeks cautioning against rising international roaming fees and “surprise” price increases being found on their bills.

Hutton said the CRTC plans to launch public consultations in the coming weeks that will focus “on ensuring that information is clear and consistent, making it easier to compare offers and switch services or providers.”

“The CRTC is concerned with recent trends, which suggest that Canadians may not be benefiting from the full protections of our codes,” he said.

“We will continue to monitor developments and will take further action if our codes are not being followed.”

French said any initiative to boost transparency is a step in the right direction.

“I can’t say we are perfect across the board, but what I can say is we are absolutely taking it under consideration and trying to be the best at communicating with our customers,” he said.

“I think everyone looking in the mirror would say there’s room for improvement.”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 8, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:T)

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TC Energy cuts cost estimate for Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico

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CALGARY – TC Energy Corp. has lowered the estimated cost of its Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico.

It says it now expects the project to cost between US$3.9 billion and US$4.1 billion compared with its original estimate of US$4.5 billion.

The change came as the company reported a third-quarter profit attributable to common shareholders of C$1.46 billion or $1.40 per share compared with a loss of C$197 million or 19 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

Revenue for the quarter ended Sept. 30 totalled C$4.08 billion, up from C$3.94 billion in the third quarter of 2023.

TC Energy says its comparable earnings for its latest quarter amounted to C$1.03 per share compared with C$1.00 per share a year earlier.

The average analyst estimate had been for a profit of 95 cents per share, according to LSEG Data & Analytics.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:TRP)

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BCE reports Q3 loss on asset impairment charge, cuts revenue guidance

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BCE Inc. reported a loss in its latest quarter as it recorded $2.11 billion in asset impairment charges, mainly related to Bell Media’s TV and radio properties.

The company says its net loss attributable to common shareholders amounted to $1.24 billion or $1.36 per share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 compared with a profit of $640 million or 70 cents per share a year earlier.

On an adjusted basis, BCE says it earned 75 cents per share in its latest quarter compared with an adjusted profit of 81 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

“Bell’s results for the third quarter demonstrate that we are disciplined in our pursuit of profitable growth in an intensely competitive environment,” BCE chief executive Mirko Bibic said in a statement.

“Our focus this quarter, and throughout 2024, has been to attract higher-margin subscribers and reduce costs to help offset short-term revenue impacts from sustained competitive pricing pressures, slow economic growth and a media advertising market that is in transition.”

Operating revenue for the quarter totalled $5.97 billion, down from $6.08 billion in its third quarter of 2023.

BCE also said it now expects its revenue for 2024 to fall about 1.5 per cent compared with earlier guidance for an increase of zero to four per cent.

The company says the change comes as it faces lower-than-anticipated wireless product revenue and sustained pressure on wireless prices.

BCE added 33,111 net postpaid mobile phone subscribers, down 76.8 per cent from the same period last year, which was the company’s second-best performance on the metric since 2010.

It says the drop was driven by higher customer churn — a measure of subscribers who cancelled their service — amid greater competitive activity and promotional offer intensity. BCE’s monthly churn rate for the category was 1.28 per cent, up from 1.1 per cent during its previous third quarter.

The company also saw 11.6 per cent fewer gross subscriber activations “due to more targeted promotional offers and mobile device discounting compared to last year.”

Bell’s wireless mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.26, down 3.4 per cent from $60.28 in the third quarter of the prior year.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:BCE)

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