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Inside the A&W test kitchen, a battlefield in the fast food wars

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One of the latest volleys in the multibillion-dollar fast food wars started with a late night on Karan Suri’s TikTok.

A&W’s director of menu development was scrolling his phone when he came across the “pickle girl” trend that was making the rounds last year, with women (and one very loud and adorable three-year-old) showing their love for preserved cucumbers.

By the next morning, he was mixing up different pickle-based sauces in the burger chain’s test kitchen in North Vancouver. Five weeks later, he’d nailed down a recipe that formed the bedrock of last summer’s A&W spicy dill burger.

“Our supplier … nailed it in the first go,” said Suri, standing in the test kitchen in mid-March, noting that the five weeks from idea to product was a record for him.

Pressure to shake it up

While much of the industry’s appeal comes from its familiarity, fast food brands also face pressure to shake up their menus in response to growing competition and changing consumer tastes.

Often, this process begins with rolling out a new limited-time offer, which brands hope will generate buzz and, if they’re lucky, inspire McRib or pumpkin spice latte levels of devotion.

It’s a high stakes game for the $42.6-billion fast food industry.

While fast food joints have fared well amid inflation, the industry’s growth is starting to slow while the number of competitors continues to rise, according to the retail analytics firm Circana, and staying relevant is key to staying in the game.

Art vs. science

Stepping into the A&W test kitchen is like walking into a supersized version of a fast food kitchen, with about 10 times the equipment. Different restaurants have different grills and fryers, so the space needs an unusual abundance of gear to make sure recipes work the same no matter where they’re rolled out.

On a recent visit, the space was meticulously clean and notably aroma-free.

It’s here that Suri — who previously worked at luxury hotels in India, Kenya and the United Arab Emirates — along with his team, try to figure out what the next thing is that customers will want to eat. It’s a process that’s both a science and an art.

How a fast food trend goes from idea to table

 

CBC business reporter Paula Duhatschek talks to A&W Director of Menu Development Karan Suri to get the inside scoop on how the fast food chain comes up with popular menu items like their Spicy Piri-Piri Potato Buddy.

Though Suri got his pickle sauce in five weeks, developing recipes can in some cases take years. A Nashville chicken glaze went through 57 different variations before the team hit upon a version that could be mass produced and stay shelf-stable inside a hot restaurant kitchen.

“It needs to be to work in those very, very tough kitchen environments,” said David Ioi, Suri’s copilot in the test kitchen and a food scientist.

A&W gets reams of data from its forecasters and suppliers about what flavours are popular now and which ones are expected to take off in the years ahead.

From menu hack to menu item

It also looks to consumers.

For the first time, the company introduced a new menu item this year based on a menu hack. A Mississauga franchise owner noticed customers from the South Asian community were buying hamburgers but substituting beef patties for hash browns.

“I’m from India and there’s a big, big population of vegetarian folks there,” said Suri. “They don’t eat meat, don’t eat chicken — but we have hash browns.”

A close-up of an A&W burger with a hashbrown instead of a beef patty.
An A&W hash brown burger, rolled out in response to a menu hack by customers, is pictured in North Vancouver on March 14. (CBC)

Shifting demographics are a key part of why restaurants mix up their menus in the first place.

Many burger-and-fry chains have their roots in the midtwentieth century, but since that time Canadian consumers and their palates have changed.

“A lot of these new immigrants, they are your guests now — they come with their own flavours and their own cultures and their own cuisines,” said Suri.

Smaller, globally inspired chains compete for dollars

Vince Sgabellone, food service industry analyst for Circana Canada, said the traditional burger chains find themselves competing against a greater number of fast food players with globally inspired cuisine — for instance, Osmow’s Shawarma, Thai Express and Roti Butter Chicken, he said.

And it’s not just fast food where that shift is happening, according to flavour expert Cecilia Pereyra.

A sliced chicken wrap on a platter of fries.
Burger joints are no longer just competing against burger joints, but other fast-food options like shawarma restaurants. (Rachelle Elsiufi/CBC)

From snack foods to drinks to desserts – some of the most popular flavours in North America right now have their roots in other parts of the world.

“Ginger, spicy honey, jerk flavours, miso, tahini, sesame seed flavours — those are all increasingly popular,” said Pereyra, global product marketer for International Flavours and Fragrances, a U.S.-based company that develops flavours for everything from multivitamins to potato chips.

Competition on the rise

For legacy brands, the trick is to marry new-to-them flavours with the familiar products they’re known for.

Adding a new seasoning or sauce to a mainstay, like a potato chip or hamburger, is a common way to do that — a concept known in the industry as “familiar discovery.”

Fast food restaurants aim to give us what we like and what we know. But as Canada’s demographics change, so do our tastes. CBC reporter Paula Duhatschek goes into the A&W test kitchen to learn what it takes to invent new menu items that give people a taste of something fresh, while staying tried and true. 

“‘Familiar discovery’ is the idea that we can give someone something reasonably familiar and then just put a layer of novelty over top of it that makes it new and interesting,” said Derek Vella, director of the University of Guelph Food Innovation Centre.

“[Customers] are more likely to buy it that way, more likely to enjoy it,” he said, pointing to the new iced yuzu drink at Tim Hortons as another example.

Spicy everything

Inside the A&W test kitchen are about a half-dozen spicy sauces under development. They range from a Sichuan-style chili oil-based sauce to a Moroccan pepper aioli that features notes of cinnamon and coriander.

“In Canada spicy has just taken off in the last four years, and it’s not your traditional hot sauce spicy,” said Suri.

A&W has about 70 products in the works right now, though only a small number will make their way out of the test kitchen and into a test market — and only after extensive testing.

“A lot of the decisions we make … [are] based on data, from going into our supplier partners’ facilities and dialling in exactly how everything gets produced down to the millimetre, down to the gram,” said Ioi.

A man in a blue button-down shirt and a blue apron prepares to taste a spoonful of spicy sauce.
David Ioi, menu development manager at A&W, prepares to taste a spoonful of spicy sauce in North Vancouver on March 14. (Maggie MacPherson/CBC)

He estimates he’s cooked their limited-edition piri-piri burger about 500 times to ensure the cooking instructions are specific enough.

“Everything has to be very consistent and almost exactly the same.”

It’s time-consuming work, but industry analyst Sgabellone said there’s more of it happening.

During the pandemic many restaurants closed their test kitchens and pared their menus back to simplify and save money.

But as the world has opened up, brands are increasingly rolling out new menu items, whether they’re entirely new recipes or nostalgic re-releases.

“That wave of innovation is flooding back into the market right now,” he said.

 

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Telus prioritizing ‘most important customers,’ avoiding ‘unprofitable’ offers: CFO

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Telus Corp. says it is avoiding offering “unprofitable” discounts as fierce competition in the Canadian telecommunications sector shows no sign of slowing down.

The company said Friday it had fewer net new customers during its third quarter compared with the same time last year, as it copes with increasingly “aggressive marketing and promotional pricing” that is prompting more customers to switch providers.

Telus said it added 347,000 net new customers, down around 14.5 per cent compared with last year. The figure includes 130,000 mobile phone subscribers and 34,000 internet customers, down 30,000 and 3,000, respectively, year-over-year.

The company reported its mobile phone churn rate — a metric measuring subscribers who cancelled their services — was 1.09 per cent in the third quarter, up from 1.03 per cent in the third quarter of 2023. That included a postpaid mobile phone churn rate of 0.90 per cent in its latest quarter.

Telus said its focus is on customer retention through its “industry-leading service and network quality, along with successful promotions and bundled offerings.”

“The customers we have are the most important customers we can get,” said chief financial officer Doug French in an interview.

“We’ve, again, just continued to focus on what matters most to our customers, from a product and customer service perspective, while not loading unprofitable customers.”

Meanwhile, Telus reported its net income attributable to common shares more than doubled during its third quarter.

The telecommunications company said it earned $280 million, up 105.9 per cent from the same three-month period in 2023. Earnings per diluted share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 was 19 cents compared with nine cents a year earlier.

It reported adjusted net income was $413 million, up 10.7 per cent year-over-year from $373 million in the same quarter last year. Operating revenue and other income for the quarter was $5.1 billion, up 1.8 per cent from the previous year.

Mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.85 in the third quarter, a decrease of $2.09 or 3.4 per cent from a year ago. Telus said the drop was attributable to customers signing up for base rate plans with lower prices, along with a decline in overage and roaming revenues.

It said customers are increasingly adopting unlimited data and Canada-U.S. plans which provide higher and more stable ARPU on a monthly basis.

“In a tough operating environment and relative to peers, we view Q3 results that were in line to slightly better than forecast as the best of the bunch,” said RBC analyst Drew McReynolds in a note.

Scotiabank analyst Maher Yaghi added that “the telecom industry in Canada remains very challenging for all players, however, Telus has been able to face these pressures” and still deliver growth.

The Big 3 telecom providers — which also include Rogers Communications Inc. and BCE Inc. — have frequently stressed that the market has grown more competitive in recent years, especially after the closing of Quebecor Inc.’s purchase of Freedom Mobile in April 2023.

Hailed as a fourth national carrier, Quebecor has invested in enhancements to Freedom’s network while offering more affordable plans as part of a set of commitments it was mandated by Ottawa to agree to.

The cost of telephone services in September was down eight per cent compared with a year earlier, according to Statistics Canada’s most recent inflation report last month.

“I think competition has been and continues to be, I’d say, quite intense in Canada, and we’ve obviously had to just manage our business the way we see fit,” said French.

Asked how long that environment could last, he said that’s out of Telus’ hands.

“What I can control, though, is how we go to market and how we lead with our products,” he said.

“I think the conditions within the market will have to adjust accordingly over time. We’ve continued to focus on digitization, continued to bring our cost structure down to compete, irrespective of the price and the current market conditions.”

Still, Canada’s telecom regulator continues to warn providers about customers facing more charges on their cellphone and internet bills.

On Tuesday, CRTC vice-president of consumer, analytics and strategy Scott Hutton called on providers to ensure they clearly inform their customers of charges such as early cancellation fees.

That followed statements from the regulator in recent weeks cautioning against rising international roaming fees and “surprise” price increases being found on their bills.

Hutton said the CRTC plans to launch public consultations in the coming weeks that will focus “on ensuring that information is clear and consistent, making it easier to compare offers and switch services or providers.”

“The CRTC is concerned with recent trends, which suggest that Canadians may not be benefiting from the full protections of our codes,” he said.

“We will continue to monitor developments and will take further action if our codes are not being followed.”

French said any initiative to boost transparency is a step in the right direction.

“I can’t say we are perfect across the board, but what I can say is we are absolutely taking it under consideration and trying to be the best at communicating with our customers,” he said.

“I think everyone looking in the mirror would say there’s room for improvement.”

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 8, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:T)

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TC Energy cuts cost estimate for Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico

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CALGARY – TC Energy Corp. has lowered the estimated cost of its Southeast Gateway pipeline project in Mexico.

It says it now expects the project to cost between US$3.9 billion and US$4.1 billion compared with its original estimate of US$4.5 billion.

The change came as the company reported a third-quarter profit attributable to common shareholders of C$1.46 billion or $1.40 per share compared with a loss of C$197 million or 19 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

Revenue for the quarter ended Sept. 30 totalled C$4.08 billion, up from C$3.94 billion in the third quarter of 2023.

TC Energy says its comparable earnings for its latest quarter amounted to C$1.03 per share compared with C$1.00 per share a year earlier.

The average analyst estimate had been for a profit of 95 cents per share, according to LSEG Data & Analytics.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:TRP)

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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BCE reports Q3 loss on asset impairment charge, cuts revenue guidance

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BCE Inc. reported a loss in its latest quarter as it recorded $2.11 billion in asset impairment charges, mainly related to Bell Media’s TV and radio properties.

The company says its net loss attributable to common shareholders amounted to $1.24 billion or $1.36 per share for the quarter ended Sept. 30 compared with a profit of $640 million or 70 cents per share a year earlier.

On an adjusted basis, BCE says it earned 75 cents per share in its latest quarter compared with an adjusted profit of 81 cents per share in the same quarter last year.

“Bell’s results for the third quarter demonstrate that we are disciplined in our pursuit of profitable growth in an intensely competitive environment,” BCE chief executive Mirko Bibic said in a statement.

“Our focus this quarter, and throughout 2024, has been to attract higher-margin subscribers and reduce costs to help offset short-term revenue impacts from sustained competitive pricing pressures, slow economic growth and a media advertising market that is in transition.”

Operating revenue for the quarter totalled $5.97 billion, down from $6.08 billion in its third quarter of 2023.

BCE also said it now expects its revenue for 2024 to fall about 1.5 per cent compared with earlier guidance for an increase of zero to four per cent.

The company says the change comes as it faces lower-than-anticipated wireless product revenue and sustained pressure on wireless prices.

BCE added 33,111 net postpaid mobile phone subscribers, down 76.8 per cent from the same period last year, which was the company’s second-best performance on the metric since 2010.

It says the drop was driven by higher customer churn — a measure of subscribers who cancelled their service — amid greater competitive activity and promotional offer intensity. BCE’s monthly churn rate for the category was 1.28 per cent, up from 1.1 per cent during its previous third quarter.

The company also saw 11.6 per cent fewer gross subscriber activations “due to more targeted promotional offers and mobile device discounting compared to last year.”

Bell’s wireless mobile phone average revenue per user was $58.26, down 3.4 per cent from $60.28 in the third quarter of the prior year.

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 7, 2024.

Companies in this story: (TSX:BCE)

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