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Refinery 29 UK

Beauty Experts Say You Only Need One Product For Great Skin

How many beauty products do you have? An overflowing bathroom cabinet full? Extras lurking on every bedroom surface, at the back of your wardrobe and in any tote bag you can find, perhaps? Or maybe just a couple of bottles lined up next to the sink? While many of us are proud of our bountiful #shelfies, if current trends are anything to go by, increasing numbers of us are falling into the second camp. Forget 7-step routines and fussy ingredients lists. Today, a minimalist approach to beauty, in particular skincare, is growing in appeal as the environmental impact of too much ‘stuff’ becomes harder to ignore. “Consumers are a lot more aware of how catastrophic their personal care routines can be for the environment,” agrees Livvy Houghton, senior creative researcher at strategic foresight consultancy, The Future Laboratory. “People are shifting away from product or ingredient-heavy routines and leaning towards a more simple approach that uses fewer products.” Are you using too many skincare products? We all know the beauty industry has a packaging problem. The cosmetics industry produces 120 billion units of packaging globally every year and using fewer products equals less waste. Similarly, streamlining is more efficient. With less-is-more reigning supreme, a growing breed of brands are banking on one product that can ‘do it all’. “Opening one product that has multiple uses increases the chances of this being used fully prior to the use-by date,” explains Yolanda Cooper, founder of plastic-free beauty brand We Are Paradoxx. The pandemic has only compounded this trend further, with ‘skinimalism‘ and ‘skip-care‘ becoming popular among people looking to strip things back. “Increased periods of time at home has meant consumers are more connected with their skin than ever, truly understanding what it needs and what it likes,” Houghton adds. It’s also driven many of us to declutter, a satisfying task which improves the aesthetic of where we’re spending all our time while allowing us to take a little bit of control amid widespread chaos. Imelda Burke, founder of Content Beauty & Wellbeing, the UK’s leading natural beauty e-tailer, says the multitasking product category has grown consistently in the past two to three years. In fact, it’s an innovation she expects to see a lot more of in the near future. From a skincare perspective, it makes sense. “The skin is a very simple organ that craves balance,” says Dija Ayodele, aesthetician and founder of Black Skin Directory. “When you use too many products and ingredients, your skin gets conflicting messages, which eventually causes inflammation and may worsen your skin concern.” Is a simple skincare routine better? Dr Barbara Kubicka, aesthetic doctor and founder of Clinicbe, notices the effects of product overload all the time. “I see people having issues with oiliness and congestion (clogged pores) or sometimes dryness and irritation if using too many active ingredients,” she says. Active ingredients are ingredients which work to treat a certain skin concern, for example acne, hyperpigmentation or scarring. Popular ones include exfoliating acids (AHAs like glycolic acid and BHAs such as salicylic acid), retinol and vitamin C. While too much of a good thing is one aspect, DIY skincare layering can also cause potential issues. This is something Ayodele has noticed as single-ingredient brands and products, such as serums and facial toners, have soared in popularity. “Most of us are not cosmetic scientists so how do you know you’re using the right and beneficial amount of anything when layering and mixing at home?” Ayodele points out. On the flip side, with a multitasking product you get a concoction of skin-nourishing ingredients expertly formulated to work together. It takes the guesswork out of which ingredients may not go well together, not to mention when, where and how you should be applying them for best results. Which are the best multitasking skincare products? Take The Nue Co’s The Pill, £65, a ‘topical supplement’ which the brand launched at the end of last year and claims offers a single daily dose of every key nutrient for the skin. Jules Miller, founder and CEO of The Nue Co, tells R29: “We found that the majority of people were using three, four or five products with highly active ingredients to target different skin issues and the layering was doing more harm than good.” The serum was created with the right amount of ingredients for exfoliating (such as lactic acid), hydrating (hyaluronic acid) and tightening skin. All of which make a noticeable difference but ensure skin doesn’t become irritated. Other brands in the luxury space are also touting this message. Created by influencer Tina Craig, U Beauty creates multifunctional products that are both results-driven and designed to save time and waste. Its Resurfacing Compound, £85, is a serum that truly covers all bases thanks to a formula of skincare heavy hitters: vitamin C for brightening and protecting against pollution, hyaluronic acid for hydration, AHAs for exfoliation, peptides for repairing skin and retinol, which is a great all-rounder and especially tough on fine lines and clogged pores. The product is particularly popular among skincare obsessives and experts on TikTok. Beauty editor favourite Augustinus Bader supports this theory, too. The product line has been 30 years in the making and is backed by Bader’s stem cell research. “There is no hero ingredient,” Bader explains, “simply that the TFC8 formula (which contains essential vitamins and moisturising molecules) in our skincare is potent enough to cause the skin to renew.” The Cream, £205, and The Rich Cream, £205, are especially popular although they do come with an eye-watering price tag. Whether these high end products save you money is debatable but there are more affordable options available. We Are Paradoxx’s most recent launch, Super Fuel, £30, stretches the concept of multitasking to different areas of the body. “It works for your hair, delicate facial skin and body equally, thanks to the gentle blend of argan, Abyssinian and maracuja oils,” explains Cooper. Oils generally lend themselves nicely to multitasking. Just think of the classic Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse, £29.50. “The structure of an oil mimics that of the moisturising lipids (oils) found naturally in the structure of the skin so they penetrate much deeper than any lotion or emulsion,” says Montague Ashley-Craig, the founder of sustainable skincare company MONTA MONTA. “It’s the same story for hair, too.” This month MONTA MONTA will launch an All Purpose Oil for face, body and hair. In a similar vein, Modern Botany is set to launch a Multi-Purpose Oil for face, body, hair and nails. R29 also rates Olay Total Effects Whip Light As Air 7-In-1 Moisturiser SPF30, £34.99, for the daytime and Allies of Skin Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream, £95, which can be used in the morning and evening. Multitasking cleansers are also gaining traction. “Cleansers are packed with skin-benefiting ingredients that are washed away down the sink. We’re seeing more cleansers that double up as other products,” says Burke. For example, The Seated Queen Cold Cream, £39, is a reinvented cold cream which you can use as makeup remover, evening cleanser, moisturiser or overnight mask. Also popular is Holifrog’s Sunapee Sacred-C Brightening Powder Wash, £39, a concentrated powder product which can be used as a cleanser, exfoliator or face mask. Of course, there are limitations to stripping back your skincare. Some skin concerns will need specific treatments that require additional products while UV protection in the form of sunscreen (80% of ageing is done by the sun) is hard to formulate with other ingredients, making it an unavoidable extra skincare step in the morning. While a one-product routine might be a little optimistic for even the most stringent of beauty users, smaller, hardworking line-ups are certainly here to stay. After all, it’s a win-win situation when it comes to saving time, clutter, money and the planet. Refinery29’s selection is purely editorial and independently chosen – we only feature items we love! As part of our business model we do work with affiliates; if you directly purchase something from a link on this article, we may earn a small amount of commission. Transparency is important to us at Refinery29, if you have any questions please reach out to us. Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?Skinimalism: The New Trend Promising Glowing SkinIs Expensive Skincare Better Than Cheap Skincare?When Does Buying Beauty Products Become Too Much?

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Ottawa orders TikTok’s Canadian arm to be dissolved

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The federal government is ordering the dissolution of TikTok’s Canadian business after a national security review of the Chinese company behind the social media platform, but stopped short of ordering people to stay off the app.

Industry Minister François-Philippe Champagne announced the government’s “wind up” demand Wednesday, saying it is meant to address “risks” related to ByteDance Ltd.’s establishment of TikTok Technology Canada Inc.

“The decision was based on the information and evidence collected over the course of the review and on the advice of Canada’s security and intelligence community and other government partners,” he said in a statement.

The announcement added that the government is not blocking Canadians’ access to the TikTok application or their ability to create content.

However, it urged people to “adopt good cybersecurity practices and assess the possible risks of using social media platforms and applications, including how their information is likely to be protected, managed, used and shared by foreign actors, as well as to be aware of which country’s laws apply.”

Champagne’s office did not immediately respond to a request for comment seeking details about what evidence led to the government’s dissolution demand, how long ByteDance has to comply and why the app is not being banned.

A TikTok spokesperson said in a statement that the shutdown of its Canadian offices will mean the loss of hundreds of well-paying local jobs.

“We will challenge this order in court,” the spokesperson said.

“The TikTok platform will remain available for creators to find an audience, explore new interests and for businesses to thrive.”

The federal Liberals ordered a national security review of TikTok in September 2023, but it was not public knowledge until The Canadian Press reported in March that it was investigating the company.

At the time, it said the review was based on the expansion of a business, which it said constituted the establishment of a new Canadian entity. It declined to provide any further details about what expansion it was reviewing.

A government database showed a notification of new business from TikTok in June 2023. It said Network Sense Ventures Ltd. in Toronto and Vancouver would engage in “marketing, advertising, and content/creator development activities in relation to the use of the TikTok app in Canada.”

Even before the review, ByteDance and TikTok were lightning rod for privacy and safety concerns because Chinese national security laws compel organizations in the country to assist with intelligence gathering.

Such concerns led the U.S. House of Representatives to pass a bill in March designed to ban TikTok unless its China-based owner sells its stake in the business.

Champagne’s office has maintained Canada’s review was not related to the U.S. bill, which has yet to pass.

Canada’s review was carried out through the Investment Canada Act, which allows the government to investigate any foreign investment with potential to might harm national security.

While cabinet can make investors sell parts of the business or shares, Champagne has said the act doesn’t allow him to disclose details of the review.

Wednesday’s dissolution order was made in accordance with the act.

The federal government banned TikTok from its mobile devices in February 2023 following the launch of an investigation into the company by federal and provincial privacy commissioners.

— With files from Anja Karadeglija in Ottawa

This report by The Canadian Press was first published Nov. 6, 2024.

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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Here is how to prepare your online accounts for when you die

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LONDON (AP) — Most people have accumulated a pile of data — selfies, emails, videos and more — on their social media and digital accounts over their lifetimes. What happens to it when we die?

It’s wise to draft a will spelling out who inherits your physical assets after you’re gone, but don’t forget to take care of your digital estate too. Friends and family might treasure files and posts you’ve left behind, but they could get lost in digital purgatory after you pass away unless you take some simple steps.

Here’s how you can prepare your digital life for your survivors:

Apple

The iPhone maker lets you nominate a “ legacy contact ” who can access your Apple account’s data after you die. The company says it’s a secure way to give trusted people access to photos, files and messages. To set it up you’ll need an Apple device with a fairly recent operating system — iPhones and iPads need iOS or iPadOS 15.2 and MacBooks needs macOS Monterey 12.1.

For iPhones, go to settings, tap Sign-in & Security and then Legacy Contact. You can name one or more people, and they don’t need an Apple ID or device.

You’ll have to share an access key with your contact. It can be a digital version sent electronically, or you can print a copy or save it as a screenshot or PDF.

Take note that there are some types of files you won’t be able to pass on — including digital rights-protected music, movies and passwords stored in Apple’s password manager. Legacy contacts can only access a deceased user’s account for three years before Apple deletes the account.

Google

Google takes a different approach with its Inactive Account Manager, which allows you to share your data with someone if it notices that you’ve stopped using your account.

When setting it up, you need to decide how long Google should wait — from three to 18 months — before considering your account inactive. Once that time is up, Google can notify up to 10 people.

You can write a message informing them you’ve stopped using the account, and, optionally, include a link to download your data. You can choose what types of data they can access — including emails, photos, calendar entries and YouTube videos.

There’s also an option to automatically delete your account after three months of inactivity, so your contacts will have to download any data before that deadline.

Facebook and Instagram

Some social media platforms can preserve accounts for people who have died so that friends and family can honor their memories.

When users of Facebook or Instagram die, parent company Meta says it can memorialize the account if it gets a “valid request” from a friend or family member. Requests can be submitted through an online form.

The social media company strongly recommends Facebook users add a legacy contact to look after their memorial accounts. Legacy contacts can do things like respond to new friend requests and update pinned posts, but they can’t read private messages or remove or alter previous posts. You can only choose one person, who also has to have a Facebook account.

You can also ask Facebook or Instagram to delete a deceased user’s account if you’re a close family member or an executor. You’ll need to send in documents like a death certificate.

TikTok

The video-sharing platform says that if a user has died, people can submit a request to memorialize the account through the settings menu. Go to the Report a Problem section, then Account and profile, then Manage account, where you can report a deceased user.

Once an account has been memorialized, it will be labeled “Remembering.” No one will be able to log into the account, which prevents anyone from editing the profile or using the account to post new content or send messages.

X

It’s not possible to nominate a legacy contact on Elon Musk’s social media site. But family members or an authorized person can submit a request to deactivate a deceased user’s account.

Passwords

Besides the major online services, you’ll probably have dozens if not hundreds of other digital accounts that your survivors might need to access. You could just write all your login credentials down in a notebook and put it somewhere safe. But making a physical copy presents its own vulnerabilities. What if you lose track of it? What if someone finds it?

Instead, consider a password manager that has an emergency access feature. Password managers are digital vaults that you can use to store all your credentials. Some, like Keeper,Bitwarden and NordPass, allow users to nominate one or more trusted contacts who can access their keys in case of an emergency such as a death.

But there are a few catches: Those contacts also need to use the same password manager and you might have to pay for the service.

___

Is there a tech challenge you need help figuring out? Write to us at onetechtip@ap.org with your questions.

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Google’s partnership with AI startup Anthropic faces a UK competition investigation

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LONDON (AP) — Britain’s competition watchdog said Thursday it’s opening a formal investigation into Google’s partnership with artificial intelligence startup Anthropic.

The Competition and Markets Authority said it has “sufficient information” to launch an initial probe after it sought input earlier this year on whether the deal would stifle competition.

The CMA has until Dec. 19 to decide whether to approve the deal or escalate its investigation.

“Google is committed to building the most open and innovative AI ecosystem in the world,” the company said. “Anthropic is free to use multiple cloud providers and does, and we don’t demand exclusive tech rights.”

San Francisco-based Anthropic was founded in 2021 by siblings Dario and Daniela Amodei, who previously worked at ChatGPT maker OpenAI. The company has focused on increasing the safety and reliability of AI models. Google reportedly agreed last year to make a multibillion-dollar investment in Anthropic, which has a popular chatbot named Claude.

Anthropic said it’s cooperating with the regulator and will provide “the complete picture about Google’s investment and our commercial collaboration.”

“We are an independent company and none of our strategic partnerships or investor relationships diminish the independence of our corporate governance or our freedom to partner with others,” it said in a statement.

The U.K. regulator has been scrutinizing a raft of AI deals as investment money floods into the industry to capitalize on the artificial intelligence boom. Last month it cleared Anthropic’s $4 billion deal with Amazon and it has also signed off on Microsoft’s deals with two other AI startups, Inflection and Mistral.

The Canadian Press. All rights reserved.

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