Melissa Vincent was 12 years old when she tried on makeup for the first time.

But when she smoothed foundation on her face, it was cakey and heavy, she said. Even worse, it didn’t blend easily into her skin tone.

“I couldn’t find anything that worked for me,” the 25-year-old Toronto resident told Global News.

READ MORE: From acne to dark spots, the most important skincare steps for Black skin

For many people of colour, struggling to find makeup that matches their skin tone is a familiar experience. The beauty industry itself has often come under attack for not being inclusive of its diverse customer base.

Are some brands lagging behind?

In an informal survey in 2018, Toronto-based Makeup for Melanin Girls founder Tomi Gbeleyi polled 5,500 women about the beauty industry. Gbeleyi found 80 per cent of women faced challenges in finding a foundation that matched their skin tone, Bustle reported.

Nielsen market research group found that African-American women spend $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, and spend 80 per cent more on ethnically targeted beauty products than their non-Black counterparts.

And Canadians spend more on prestige beauty products than any other country in the world, with the NPD group reporting that we spend on average $1.4 billion annually on luxury beauty brands.

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In fact, it wasn’t until Grammy-winning musician Rihanna launched her highly acclaimed makeup line Fenty Beauty in 2017 that boasted 50 foundation shades that brands began to rethink their own shade ranges. This has now been dubbed the “Fenty Effect.”

Makeup artist Aniya Nandy who teaches cosmetic management at Humber College in Toronto, says some brands are still lagging behind.

“The brands that are going to make money are the ones that cater to their minority customers like Fenty has,” she said.

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Makeup brands like Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Tarte Cosmetics, I.T. Cosmetics and Beautyblender have faced swift backlash for limited shade ranges that excluded nonwhite people.

Although Tarte, I.T. and Beautyblender have since expanded their shade ranges, most major drugstore and prestige brands have only expanded their shade ranges in the last four years in response to consumer pressure generated by Fenty’s debut.

A collection of foundations by Fenty Beauty. Getty Images

But even when brands do boast 40 colours, people of colour may still find themselves at a loss.

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It’s not just about one single colour

Complexion makeup can’t be defined by just one colour, it’s also about undertones and varying pigmentations all over the face, particularly for nonwhite people.

Stellar makeup founder Monika Deol says that when it comes to foundation, more choices doesn’t necessarily mean better results.

“Brands think that having 100 different foundation colours means they are doing a good job, but that’s not necessarily true,” says Deol, who is South Asian.

“It’s about having a number of colours that address each undertone.” 

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Where you live can also be a factor. Even in a country as diverse as Canada, finding your shade is dependent on whether your local drug store stocks every single shade in a 40 colour brand.

Most Canadians go to Shoppers Drug Mart for their beauty needs, market research group ProdegeMR suggests. 

But Toronto makeup artist Elle St. Aubyn said that it’s been a struggle to find her shade at a drugstore.

“I just want to be able to go into the drugstore and find makeup that suits me,” says Aubyn.

“With drugstore brands, even though there are some darker shades, there’s still something missing. There’s a bit of an ashiness. When things aren’t made with people of colour in mind, it’s never quite right.” 

In a statement from Shoppers Drug Mart Corporation to Global News, Kelly Jessop, vice president of category management says Shoppers Drug Mart has put an emphasis on listening to customers.

Foundation selection at a local Shoppers Drug Mart. Photo By Genelle Levy

“We understand their current needs and work hard to anticipate what they’ll be looking for in our stores in the future. Industry trends, product innovation, new brands and what resonates with our customers are all factors that play a role in the decision we make.”

READ MORE: ‘Hair Love’: Short film encourages Black girls to embrace their hair

Shoppers Drug Mart Corp. also noted that they’ve recently included the British brand Revolution Makeup in their online store and 600 of their physical locations.

Revolution Makeup “serves to represent and champion a diverse set of customers” and offers over 40 shades in several of their foundation products, according to their site.

Makeup comes down to science

Science and innovation are often underrated in conversations about diversity in the beauty industry. But you can’t create makeup without chemistry, even in clean, natural brands.

Makeup is a formulation of different natural and chemical ingredients. Research and development not only comprises the testing phase, but also the creation and cosmetic chemistry behind a product.

In 2018, the Statista database reported L’Oreal spent just over $1.3 trillion on research and development in comparison with Estee Lauder who spent only $267.8 million in the same category. 

Liquid foundations are first created in a lab from an emulsion (a combination of oil and water) before pigments are added says Seneca College professor and cosmetic scientist Ivana Knezevic.

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There are four industry-standard pigments used to create foundations: red, yellow, black and white. 

“When used in different ratios they can achieve a huge range of shades,” said the Toronto-based cosmetic scientist.

But sometimes in order for a brand to create a quality product for darker skin tones reformulation is required, and that’s where things get complicated.

“There’s the cost of the chemical itself,” says Knezevic.

READ MORE: How to take care of Black hair, from heat damage to breakage

“Then there’s the matter of how easy or how complicated it is to include in the formula. There could be quality assurance issues. Maybe under certain conditions the original formula used for past products won’t work. So then the formula has to be reformulated and then that adds costs.” 

In 2012, L’Oreal committed to that reformulation process, and African-American cosmetic scientist Balanda Atis created a breakthrough formulation that would become a game-changer for how foundations were created for people of colour.

Atis used ultramarine blue to create darker foundation shades now worn by Lancome ambassador Lupita Nyong’o. In a documentary titled The Spectrum, Atis explained that in order to create deeper shades “you don’t necessarily go blacker, you go deeper in colour.”

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In 2014 the L’Oreal Multicultural Lab was established to create products tailored to people of colour in the 140 countries where L’Oreal products are sold. 

In the past, brands have been the ones to control the conversation around makeup.

Experts say there are four industry-standard pigments used to create foundations: red, yellow, black and white. Getty Images

Nandy says that 20 years ago brands used to be more selective about who they were going to market to, whether it was young women or older upper-middle-class women who shopped in department stores.

Back then, brands marketed to their ideal clients.

“Now it’s gone in the direction of marketing to everyone,” Nandy said. “Brands like Glossier are consumer-friendly. They’re telling consumers you don’t have to be a professional makeup artist to look good, and it’s empowering the consumer.”

Twelve years later, Vincent says she is noticing a change when it comes to shopping for makeup as a woman of colour.

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She was recently able to find her shade in Glossier’s Perfecting Skin Tint. When she reached out to the brand’s Instagram page to get assistance with colour matching, they mailed her two extra shade options free of charge so that she wouldn’t have to sustain extra shipping costs.

“I don’t think I’ve ever experienced that before. The beauty industry has been a historically racist institution.”

She says many Black people have felt excluded in the beauty industry for decades.

“That gesture felt like a small act of trying to repair that relationship, and it allowed me to have more trust in the product.” 

Genelle Levy is a freelance journalist who focuses on culture and social issues. Her work has appeared in USA Today, Toronto Life and TeenVogue. She is also a contributing editor at the creative nonfiction magazine Narratively.com. 

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Samsung officially confirmed in a press release that it should temporarily close one of its factories in South Korea after confirming a Coronavirus case. According to the brand, the factory located in Gumi, will be closed at least until Monday (February 25).

Of course, they should also put some security measures in place, such as the quarantine of several employees who had direct contact with the individual who tested positive for the virus.

Difficulties with factories in South Korea may increase over the coming weeks due to Coronavirus

Although the vast majority of Samsung’s factories are located in Vietnam and India, the manufacturer has other facilities responsible for manufacturing processors and displays in South Korean territory. The factory in Gumi City only makes up a small portion of Samsung’s Galaxy Z Flip production.  Despite this incident, Samsung has confirmed that the remaining factories will continue to function at full capacity.

The Galaxy Z Flip sold out quickly after its initial release online and has since been difficult for consumers to find. On Thursday, Samsung claimed the phone was still available at “select retailers and carrier stores around the country.” It also restocked its own online store. However, many would-be buyers have still had a hard time getting their hands on the phone.

However, it is possible that they will face some more difficulties, as cases of Coronavirus infections in South Korea continue to increase exponentially. Currently, a total of 433 infections is in records, resulting in 2 deaths and 16 successful recoveries.

Coronavirus continues to present itself as a serious threat to the smartphone market. After being responsible for canceling the world’s largest mobile technology fair (MWC 2020), the Coronavirus outbreak continues to threaten the evolution of the smartphone market.

The great congestion in transport services in Asian countries has weakened the ability of brands to maintain their inventories with positive levels in the various western markets. In addition, the slowdown in the production levels of its factories is also starting to show negative results in the ability to offer new products.

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The Galaxy Z Flip is the best foldable phone I’ve ever used. Considering this is still a new field with only the Motorola Razr, Galaxy Fold and Huawei Mate X for competing devices you can buy today, that might not sound like much. Don’t believe it. Samsung has done most things right with the Z Flip’s design, creating a foldable phone that’s fun to wield and practical enough for everyday life. 

With the Galaxy Z Flip, Samsung proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that foldable phones have a right to exist as more than just experimental toys. That’s quite an impressive feat for Samsung’s second stab at foldables, especially after its first attempt had such a disastrous start. To see Samsung pivot so quickly to a design that’s sturdier, recognizable as a phone and straightforward to use is worth acknowledging. 

I’ve quickly fallen in love with the Galaxy Z Flip — particularly the way the 6.7-inch glass screen stands upright on its own — but Samsung still has work to do. At $1,380 (£1,300), the Z Flip is wildly expensive for the specs, and beyond the reach of most budgets. The bendable glass display is fragile and the phone is vulnerable to water and dust. Battery life is only so-so, and its 1.1-inch outer screen is stupid small. 

Most people shouldn’t run out and buy the Galaxy Z Flip. While it’s good enough to rely on in the real world, foldable phones remain largely showpieces for early adopters and hobbyists. You’ll get more camera options, longer battery life and a bona fide water-resistance rating from other flagship phones (I test the $1,400 Galaxy S20 Ultra next). 

That said, if you’re debating between this and the Motorola Razr, get the Z Flip without compunction. I also prefer it to the Galaxy Fold, although I’d honestly just wait for the Fold 2 if you want a tablet-size foldable.

Overall, Samsung has done an excellent job bringing thrilling innovations to the Galaxy Z Flip that are simple to understand and surprisingly easy to use. I expect that the next generation will be even better.

What I love about the Galaxy Z Flip

• A cohesive device that’s easy to pick up and use right away.
• Closed, it feels sturdy and compact. Gripping it by the hinge end feels secure.
• The screen stays open on its own at a wide variety of angles (more on this below).
• The foldable glass screen — a world’s first — helps keep the dreaded crease to a minimum. There’s no damage so far to the one I’ve bought.
• Camera quality is strong on all three sensors (see breakout).
• Solid specs include a Snapdragon 855 Plus processor, 256GB of storage, fast charging and reverse wireless charging (all specs below).
• A swipe-out screen is helpful for launching favorite apps and split-screen mode, especially during one-handed use.
• It comes with a free plastic case for extra peace of mind.
• Android 10 and Samsung One UI 2 keep the software current.

What I don’t like about the Galaxy Z Flip

• It’s expensive: $1,380 or £1,300 (about AU$2,500 converted from the UK price).
• Fingerprint smudges accumulate quickly on all surfaces.
• The cover display is too small to be useful. Samsung missed a sizable opportunity (more below).
• Battery life is a tad disappointing.
• Many videos and games don’t fit perfectly into the 21.9:9 screen dimensions, resulting in black side bars.
• The fingerprint reader would be more conveniently placed on the lower half — at least for my hands.
• It’s vulnerable to damage from exposure to water and dust (you get a one-year warranty and 24/7 customer service).
• Since you have to unfold it first, it takes longer to do most things than on a standard phone. I’ve missed a few camera moments as a result. (On the flip side, I like the finality of snapping it closed.) 

Flex Mode is the Galaxy Z Flip’s killer feature

Open the Galaxy Z Flip from either side and let go. The half you pulled up hasn’t snapped back down into closed position or slowly arched back to fully open. Chances are, it’s stayed exactly where it is.

The hinge’s freestanding ability is something Samsung called Flex Mode, and it’s the Z Flip’s most unique, interesting and effective feature by far because it lets you interact with the phone hands-free. 

I didn’t have to invent reasons to keep the screen propped open. That happened naturally. Sometimes I was taking a selfie without awkwardly getting my arm in the way (the wide-angle lens and timer worked great). Or reading an article or scrolling through my inbox or social media feeds while eating lunch. Any time I was tired of holding the phone and wanted to set it down. Making a video call. Making a speakerphone call from the couch. Even bending the phone in the middle in landscape mode to watch a video solo or to show a friend.

Using Flex Mode does come with a few trade-offs I’m willing to make. It winds up bisecting the screen, so the part you’re interacting with is relatively small, often less than 4 inches diagonally. The camera app is dynamic enough to readjust to Flex Mode, with other apps to come, Samsung says, but for me, the convenience of going hands-free outweighed my other objections. It’s just that nice to use the Z Flip as its own stand. 

On foldables with larger screens, you can envision a real benefit to using one half as a virtual keyboard and the other as the display screen.

The only immediate downside I can see to Flex Mode is that a stiffer hinge means it takes a little more force to flick the phone open when it’s closed, especially if you’re trying to impress someone with your gunslinger skills. I’m curious (and perhaps a little concerned) to see if the hinge will loosen over time and lose some of that self-supporting capability, slumping one way or the other.

Tiny cover display is the Z Flip’s worst trait

The Galaxy Z Flip is so good that my disappointment with the phone’s outer screen pangs me all the more. Samsung gave the foldable flip phone a tiny pill-shaped display next to the main cameras. 

Unfortunately, it’s too small, squat and narrow to really do anything meaningful with it, and that’s something the Razr can brag about. For all its foibles, that phone’s 2.7-inch exterior display is large enough to view notifications and  will let you respond to them with voice dictation and canned messages. 

On the Galaxy Z Flip, you can double-tap to see the time, date and battery percentage. You’ll also see the battery percentage while charging up. Swipe the cover screen to see app icons that represent notifications. Tap one to see the subject or read a message on a scrolling ticker. You may need to open the phone to truly see what’s going on. It’s not entirely useful.

Samsung also envisions this mini window as a viewfinder for you and others. The problem is that you can’t really place yourself within the photo, and the window is too small to see what you really look like. I do like that you get access to the two main 12-megapixel cameras that way, and that you can swipe on the outer screen to swap between standard and ultrawide-angle sensors.

In one selfie I took with the phone closed (the only photo type you can take this way), a friend and I looked centered as I held the phone at arm’s length. It’s only when checking in the photo gallery that I noticed a third person in our group had just as much screen share, a person who we didn’t see in the viewfinder.

Outer screens are tricky for foldable phones. They suck up battery reserves and internal space. If they’re irregularly shaped, like the Fold’s too-tall-and-narrow 4.6-inch screen, you start to resent the cramped quarters that make typing and using apps feel unnatural. 

To me, this design is clearly Samsung compromising usability for battery life and to undercut the Razr’s price. I don’t think that’s a winning strategy in the long term.

Camera quality puts Motorola Razr to shame

I feel for the Motorola Razr. The concept is terrific, but the execution pales in comparison to the Galaxy Z Flip. That’s especially apparent in the camera category.

Samsung’s 12-megapixel wide-angle and ultrawide-angle sensors take better photos and give you more options than the Razr’s single 16-megapixel camera, especially with low light shots. Inside, the Z Flip has a 10-megapixel shooter that’s also good for selfies (like when you want more control over the shot) and for video calls. 

The Razr has a 5-megapixel interior camera that the company admits is really just there to start a video call before closing the phone and switching to the better camera, but smaller outside screen. Stay tuned for a deep dive comparison between the Motorola Razr and Galaxy Z Flip cameras.

The internet has approved of the photos I’ve been posting on Twitter from the Galaxy Z Flip. Keep in mind it’s essentially using the Galaxy S10’s camera sensors. Samsung’s upcoming Galaxy S20 phones all use at least one 12-megapixel camera apiece as part of their arrays, but those lean on larger sensors that Samsung says have been completely redesigned and greatly improved.

Single Take camera mode is more trouble than it’s worth

One camera feature that the Galaxy Z Flip and Galaxy S20 phones will have in common is Single Take, a new photography mode that will take up to 10 photos and four videos when you select it and then press and hold the record button. The mode uses multiple cameras and settings to quickly get you variety that you can choose from. 

I tried this out several times, and… it’s just not for me. Single Take works best during action shots or when you’re photographing a group of friends hanging out, but I never got a photo or video that I liked better than one I’d take myself. Some of that probably comes down to me and my Type A personality that wants to compose the shot to my specifications. Some might come down to my reluctance to sort through the haul and delete what I don’t want.

The idea here is convenience, and I could see myself using it if I only had one chance to capture a moment. I could also see myself adding the Live Focus portrait mode to my menu bar instead.

Galaxy Z Flip battery life is just so-so

What good is a $1,400 phone if it can’t take you through the day? Thankfully, that’s not the Galaxy Z Flip’s problem for me most days. With a combined capacity of 3,300 mAh spread across two battery cells, it gives you more juice than the Razr (2,510 mAh). In my real-world tests, it’s lasted from the time I wake up until evening, when I can easily plug it in again.

On my heaviest use days with hotspotting, streaming video and maps navigation, it ran about 13 hours, lasting overnight on lighter days. In CNET’s lab test to simulate mixed real-world use, it lasted 12 hours. In our battery drain test using looping video (and airplane mode), the result was 15 hours of run time on a single charge. 

That’s on the lower end of the spectrum for most phones, and a far cry from the Galaxy Note ($800 at Amazon) 10, which easily takes me from early morning to the wee hours without concern. I wouldn’t plan a late night with the Galaxy Z Flip without bringing a charger along with me or topping it up first. 

For reference, the Galaxy S20 battery starts at 4,000 mAh and goes up to 5,000 on the Ultra, a phone that costs $20 more than the Z Flip. Battery life is clearly a challenge for foldable phones, and one that I hope Samsung and others are working on for future generations.

Will the Z Flip’s glass screen last?

Longevity is something we can’t test on a product a week out of the box, but it is something we’re keeping an eye on with foldable phones — on our review units and on others’ reports. Samsung says that the Z Flip’s screen and hinge will hold up for 200,000 flips, a volume it estimates will take five years to achieve during typical use. That’s the same rating as the Galaxy Fold.

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